Tag Archives: For Syo

Class Samples: Sew Over It Rosie Dress

In my head, I’m calling this the Into The Woods Dress.

Back last winter, when I first floated the notion of teaching a class for the Sew Over I Rosie Dress, I was envisioning a fun, maybe quirky sundress for myself. However, events occurred and this is not a particularly maternity-friendly style. So, when the time came to do up the sample (class is in July), I thought this woodsy set of coordinates would tickle Syo’s fancy. I think I was right. Or possibly she’s just humouring me.

I didn’t fussy cut the straps, so I was really happy with how the wolf and tree came out positioned on them.

To fit Syo, I made a size 10 with a small (1″ total) full bust adjustment. On trying it on her, though, I wound up taking the bodice in 1/4″ at each side seam. Given that Syo is still just shy of five foot tall, I made a couple of other adjustments, shaving off about 1/2″ at the bottom of the bodice and hemming the skirt up a full four inches. I shortened the straps a bunch as well.

The straps are really wide set on Syo’s frame (which surprised me as I tend to think of her as similar to me in build except shorter); I wound up moving the back straps quite a bit closer to the center, and would’ve moved the front if they weren’t already sewn down and understitched and graded and everything.

The pattern called for somewhere over 4m of fabric in the narrower width. With a bit of measuring I estimated that about three meters were needed for the skirt alone. However, it turned out the bolt of the wolves and trees print was divided right down the middle into two sections of about 2.6m each. So I took one of them home and resolved to Make It Work. I was fairly sure if I really ran short I could shorten the skirt an inch or two without causing a problem. Which in hindsight I could’ve, but I managed to squeak out all the pieces with only a little fudging, though there was no attempt to refine print placement. It is a pretty fun skirt, though, with subtle shaping and a front panel framed by pleats that’s just begging to be made in a contrast fabric.

Most of the angst came from the zipper for this project. Last summer I acquired (among other things) a “proper” invisible zipper foot. I’ve always installed them with a regular foot, and I feel most comfortable with that. But I thought I’d try using the proper foot, so I have more experience if any of my students bring one. Heh. My first pass was too far from the zipper teeth; a stripe of black zipper showed. So I adjusted my needle position, but I over-corrected and it was too close. It did up all right on its own, but when I tried to put it on the dress form, the zipper gave and then one half of the slide came right off.

I put the whole bloody thing away for several days at that point.

When I finally came back to it, I was able to get the zipper back into its track, only to promptly have it burst off again when I tried to put the dress on Syo. So I grumblingly unpicked the near-tooth row of stitching, and it seems to be working now, even if I’m not terribly trusting of it. And there’s that stripe of black in the back. I’m going to live with it. (Though I confess, I haven’t closed up the bodice lining yet, in case I do have to completely replace the zipper. Yeah, not laziness at all…)

In any case this was a fun pattern and project (though maybe a lapped zip would be a better plan). And I’m trying to remember the last time I made Syo an actual dress. Ok, this is why I blog. Are you ready for it?

2011.

I mean, she’s gotten any number of leggings, crop tops, sweaters, and Hallowe’en costumes in the meantime, but not a single dress. So I guess it was time.

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Little sweaters

Cloned sweater. Conflict was much reduced when the sisters didn’t have to fight over the original.

One of the styles (my) contemporary teenagers like is a fairly shrunken, close-fitting version of the sweatshirt. I had cloned an existing one (which belongs to Tyo) for Syo, last winter sometime, which was successful but, like the original, very dependent on fabric stretch to fit. I wanted a version with a little more ease, that would work in less stretchy, classic sweatshirt fabrics. There are almost certainly patterns out there for this look—but I don’t own any of them, and I do own enough patterns that I should not be buying more for something as simple as a raglan sleeve sweatshirt.

Anyway, last night my husband sent me downstairs to sew while he played video games, and I cut out another Jalie Julia, but the fabric was dark and there’s white thread in the serger right now and I didn’t feel like changing it, so I looked around for a different project.

(The regular machine, on the other hand, had black thread in the needle and white thread in the bobbin, because Syo was apparently down there trying to alter a bra but she’s too lazy to change the bobbin thread. Or so I surmise, since the bra was still sitting on the floor. Because that’s life with teenagers. )

Anyway, so looking around for something else, I spied this fabric, which I bought my girls for Christmas presents last year. (This is what happens, teenagers, when you make the mistake of showing interest in your mom’s hobbies.)

I thought it was adorable and hilarious. It looks like sweatshirt fabric on the outside, but the inside is almost like a minky. And then when I was getting it cut we discovered it was flawed—some bad lines of staining on the soft white interior. It became steeply discounted and I became the owner of a ridiculous amount of it.

The kids thought it made great blankets (as most fleece fabrics do), and Tyo mused at length about making a giant pj sweater out of it, and a tiny cropped sweater for Syo, but nothing happened beyond that so eventually I packed it away into the stash.

But it would be perfect for white serger thread.

After a bit of digging I decided Kwik Sew 2893 seemed like a good place to start. While it’s styled like a baseball tee, it’s roomier than Jalie 3245, and the difference between a baseball tee and a sweatshirt pattern is largely about ease.

It’s a kids pattern but the XL is a size 12-14, which is about the same chest measurement as Tyo, and I figured if it didn’t fit Syo it would fit Tyo, and if Tyo didn’t like it it would work for Fyon, who is a very skinny eleven now. This is the convenient part of having multiple girls in the family, even if they don’t stairstep quite as neatly as they used to.

I wanted a slightly cropped length, partly just to use less fabric in this tester version, so I made it the length of the Extra Small size. This is still significantly longer than the sweater at the top of the post, and as it turned out, while it makes a short sweater, it’s not what I would call cropped.

At the last moment I decided to include the pocket, also in a size XS, because it’s nice for teenagers to have somewhere to stuff their phones. This was pretty simple, although more stabilization might’ve been nice. I did knit interfacing strips along the opening parts.

None of the grey ribbings I have in stash were a perfect match, but this one was the best. I could also try black at some point, that might be fun.

Anyway. While I was sewing it up I was convinced I was making a sweater for Fyon, but Syo tried it on and it fits her. It also fits Tyo but the length is awkward—longer than cropped but not as long as she’d like a normal length sweater. On the other hand she didn’t take it off and went on to sleep in it, so I guess it’s not that bad.

And it’s one tiny piece less taking up space in my stash.

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Little elves…

… Would have been desperately welcome.

PJ-Palooza

In the end, I did pull it off. Despite having as much No Time as usual, I made more Xmas presents than I think I ever have before. Four pairs of PJ pants, above.

Chemo-Raglan

Two Jalie raglans, one for my husband’s grandmother and one for my cousin

Jalie Raglan Tunic Dress. So hard not to keep this.

A couple of Jalie shrugs, and a Star Wars pillowcase.

Shrug + Pillowcase. Both have been gifted and no better photos were taken.

Whew!

The only ones I have any energy to cover in depth are the PJ pants. I used some random Kwik Sew patterns for skinny sweats for my very skinny nieces, aiming for extra length and WAY overshooting.

Long enough?

 

For my own kids, I used the Sewaholic Tofino PJ pants, which I’ve had in stash for an aeon or two.

I cut the size 0 in both cases, because it was easier and the reviews seemed to suggest that Tofino was fairly ro0my (Tyo’s butt size would have put her in a size 2. I think either would have been fine.)

I took advantage of the part where these are pull on pants and DIDN’T grade up to a larger size at the waist (even Tyo, who is much more pear shaped than either Syo or I, would be at least a size larger in the waist.) This means not so much gathering at the waist, I guess, but I think it makes for pretty sleek looking pants. Other than taking off some length in Syo’s version, I MADE NO ALTERATIONS! No raising the rear waist or dropping the front, no round-butt alteration… partly because they’re PJ pants and partly because Sewaholic’s pants-draft is the bomb. Well, for those who are generous in the deriere*. Love it.

They are quite wide-legged pants. I wasn’t going for skinnies, so that was fine, but if you’re looking for sleek PJs this might not be the pattern for you. Personally, I’m in love with the side panel, especially in a contrasting colour. It just makes them so much more special than plain PJ pants.

Tyo's Pair

Tyo’s Pair

The whole PJ-Palooza actually started when this Monster High flannel came in at a REALLY good price. You see, Monster High came out (at least around here) a year or so after Tyo had officially “outgrown” dolls (Yes, Kid MD, I know… kids!) and Tyo was all like “where where those when I was little?” and will totally secretly watch the TV show and stuff if no one is looking. So it just had to be. And Monster High pants for my nieces were a no-brainer as well. I could have just included Syo in the theme, too, but I really wanted something that would bring about that inner squee…

Fairy Tail Logo

I may or may not have mentioned before that she’s all about the Fairy Tail these days.

 

Seriously, fan-fic-reading-ly obsessed.

Sadly, as far as I can tell, Fairy Tail fabric is non-existant outside prepared items (not to mention virtually impossible to Google since Google assumes you’re good with anything “Fairy Tale”.

However, it does have a fairly stylized and easy-to-trace recognizable logo. And that outer panel on the Tofino pants leg is just begging to be applique’d on. As always when applique’ing I used Steam-A-Seam to stabilize and stick everything together. What can I say—I’m a one-trick pony.

New Sewing Machine has fancy applique stitches!

I had almost enough fortitude to face three appliques—so I opted for the asymmetrical thing and put them all on one leg.

Fairy Tail Applique

Since she declared this the Best Christmas Ever on the basis of these pants (as well as some Fairy Tail jewelry from my brother and some more of the mangas from my Dad), I will deem my efforts successful.

Buttonholes for waist ties

One other cute feature of the Tofinos is the tie in the waistband. Now, the way I consructed it is NOT the way the pattern directs (I was kinda confused about the pattern directions, but I wasn`t reading very closely.) I added about a 5″ length of non-roll elastic between the two halves of the tie, so it’s both adjustable and elastic. The kids seem to be a bit mixed in reaction to this feature—I think they would’ve probably liked a built-in elastic, maybe with the tie as well, but that seemed like a lot of work. We’ll see—it can be modified at any point, after all. This was the fist time I’d done buttonholes (for the ties to run through) using my new sewing machine, and it did them very nicely indeed, although doing buttonholes on a single layer of waistband (plus a bit of interfacing behind that section) is pretty much the ideal conditions, so it doesn’t prove much.

 

 In any case, I’ll call that Christmas Managed. 🙂

*I do not have a generous derriere at all, but a well-developed swayback mimics some of the bubble-butt issues, namely the unequal lengths in front and back rise and the gaping-above-the-butt issue.

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Christmas Sewing Begins

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Really late, yes. Shush. My plans are modest—this pair of dancey-flares for Syo, based on this Kwik Sew kids’ yoga pants pattern (KS3498). It shouldn’t take more than a couple of hours, provided I can arrange for Syo to not be home and for myself to be home.

Wish me luck. 😉

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December 13, 2014 · 10:26 am

Dancy-pants Jr.

Kwik Sew 3498

Kwik Sew 3498

Syo also wants Fauxlodias. For whatever reason, I didn’t want to make her some just like mine, from Jalie 3022, so I looked around and eventually went out and bought (!) Kwik Sew 3498. Because, apparently there is a pattern-style out there that I don’t already own.

Kwik Sew 3498

Kwik Sew 3498

Not being as trusting of Kwik Sew patterns as Jalie (I just haven’t made quite as many, and some people report them being oversized, although the pattern reviews for this pattern were reassuring on that front), I wanted to make a trial version before I went all crazy ruffly. So I used up much of the last of my supplex making a plain-Jane version. Syo isn’t thrilled about this, but she will survive—although whether this pair ever gets worn again remains up in the air. Personally, I think they’re a great style, the sort of thing you can wear to dance practice or around the house or even to school without looking out of place, but I’m over thirty so my opinion doesn’t count. 😉

Attitude

She is not as in love with them as I am.

I made the size L (10), which is a smidgeon larger than Syo’s hip measurement. After measuring her inseam, I added 3 cm to the length, which I have to say was not an alteration I ever expected to make for a child who was never over the 5th percentile for height. Having compared the pattern with the Jalie 3247 shorts I made Syo for her birthday, I thought the rise in the KS pattern was a bit high (actually, I thought that just looking at the envelope models—it’s sitting in a good spot on them but it looks like they have pulled the crotch down to somewhere it wouldn’t normally sit). I removed 1.5 cm from the front, and took a wedge out from nothing at the CB seam to 1.5 cm at the side-seam (the exact opposite of what I usually do to Jalie patterns, by the way. 😉 ) They are still plenty high enough.

Pose

Pose

The length is ample but not really excessive—for dance pants I don’t regret adding it (although it occurs to me that I will probably have to shave it off in the flare version since that will probably have rolled hems), and it gives her a bit of room to grow. Assuming she ever voluntarily wears these. But if she doesn’t, I can still hope that Fyon will. Or the Waif. The great part about having a string of girls in the family.

Waistband

Waistband

The coolest feature of these pants (aside from the “basic stretch pants with side-seam” that I was looking for), is the V-option front waistband. I made it up exactly as directed. I’m not sure if that little dip-down is me or the pattern or just a natural feature of this kind of finish when it’s slack; it’s much less evident when she’s wearing them, which you can kinda-sorta-see if you scroll down to the last picture in this post. I added (or tried to add) clear elastic into the seam where the band attaches, to give a bit more stay-up-oomph to the pants. This worked OK where I didn’t slice half the elastic off with the overlocker. There is apparently an elastic-applicator foot for my new serger. I want.

Back View

Back View

There is plenty of length, but they don’t drag on the ground (and that’s in bare feet.)

Hemz

Hemz

The pattern calls for one-inch hems, which I gave a try at. I hate hemming knits—none of my machines are particularly good at it. This is the triple-zig-zag stitch on the White, and at the presser-foot-pressure-setting (say that ten times fast, I dare you.) that doesn’t produce ripples, it also barely feeds the fabric through, so it’s really hard to keep the stitch-length even. However, they’re not overly visible so I’ll call it a win, for me if not for home-sewing-is-as-good-as-storebought. While I’m fantasizing, someday I will have a coverstitch machine. Someday.

Side view

Side view

There is plenty of coverage for her round derriere. Although Syo has my broad shoulders, she also appears to be getting at least a modified version of the Gigi butt.

Numba 1

Numba 1

She is very disappointed that this version didn’t have a knee-high slit. Also I was making her pose in full-length pants (wicking material or no) on a hot day right before going to her friends’ house for a sleepover. So maybe she’ll feel more enthusiastic about these later. Maybe?

Hey, a mom can hope. I guess at worst, I could cut them off into short shorts. She wears the snot out of those.

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And something for Syo

Syo was a bit put out with all the work on Tyo’s grad dress. She didn’t even get her onesie yet (I know, major mommy fail.) and here I am working on another big project for her sister? (To be fair, Tyo doesn’t wear leggings or most of the other quickie-type makes that Syo benefits from, so over the course of a year it really evens out. Somehow this does not satisfy either of them.)

This little birthday suit (haha) doesn’t really make up for it, but maybe it’s a start. I took the day of Syo’s birthday off work (calloo callay!), and asked what she would like to do.

 

Jalie 3247

Jalie 3247

Since she knows me, she suggested I/we make her something. We spent most of the morning digging through my horrifically disorganized stash, and eventually settled on some denim knit remnants for the fabric, and Jalie 3247 for the pattern. I’m also planning (hoping) to make her a swimsuit with this pattern, but on this given day (which was, after all, her day) she wanted shorts and a sports bra.

We’ll start with the shorts, because I did make them first. I made the size 10 (N), the only alteration to make the back rise a teeny bit higher. I just added on at the top, but I think my usual Jalie alteration—adding a little wedge to the CB curve—would’ve been better, even if it’s a bit of a pain in a pattern with no side pieces.

Jalie shorts

Jalie shorts

Because we were using a denim knit (left over from the jeggings), and because Syo has no concept that leggings are not pants (one I struggle with myself, I confess.), I figured some topstitching was in order. There’s also an underlay below the mock fly, just like on my jeggings, which gives this bit a bit more substance. I used Gutermann jeans thread, a narrow zig-zag, and a long stitch. It’s not quite stretchy enough for around the leg, I thought, but should be fine for the vertical seams. I didn’t go as far as to add pockets, however.

The top

The top

If it looks like the binding is a slightly different colour, that’s because it is. I had only the teeniest scrap of the darker blue denim knit left (hence the centre-front seam, too), so I had to use my other jegging knit for the back and bindings. I don’t think it’s super noticeable in real life. I actually had to cut the two halves of the front on the diagonal to make them fit, and because the denim knit has a bit of a twill-looking thing going on, one of them actually has its twill “rib”, that usually goes diagonally across the fabric, going straight up and down. The other has it going roughly the opposite way. Not perfect. Although the stretch and everything is just fine, so I’ll be grateful for that at least.

Back Interest

Back Interest

Syo picked the view with the criss-crossy spaghettie straps at the back. It is the most exciting view, I will admit. The pattern suggests you make skinny straps and turn them (with a bobby pin! GO JALIE!), but I made these the same way I make belt-loops for jeans, only skinnier—serge the edges, fold under, and topstitch. At this width the serging actually made it much easier to get the folding evenly, although having both edges serged also added some bulk. I wish I had thought to inter-weave the straps at the back where they criss-cross but I didn’t. Next time.

Hard to photograph

Hard to photograph

As with the jeggings before them, getting good photos of this little outfit was not easy. Every photo here had to be lightened to get any kind of visibility, hence the washed out grass above.

Especially on a child who will only give you action shots.

Especially on a child who will only give you action shots.

Also, don’t ask me why a barely-a-step-up-from-a-swimsuit play outfit should be styled with mukluks. But apparently, this is how this outfit should be worn.

But she is definitely happy with them.

Tree climbing? Check.

 

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Interlude

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While I grapple with the enormity that is wedding sewing and try to put together something resembling a coherent post (hah!), let me entertain you, however fleetingly, with a top Syo made herself.

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It is drapy and cute and I just might want one. It comes from the “tying knots in fabric until it fits” school of fashion design, which I suspect is the oldest such school. We then replaced the knots with a few serged seams, because that was easier than threading the sewing machine.

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I think I could use a few of these projects myself…

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