Tag Archives: Fauxlodias

Happy stripey dancey fun.

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It’s been a dancey-sewing summer around here. Probably inspired by having some fun performances happening, although the vast majority of the sewing wasn’t related to that—it has still been fun to have some exciting new gear to wear to class. And, it’s all knits which are quick and satisfying, which is important for me right now always.

Anyway, one of my sewy friends made the mistake, a few weeks ago, of lamenting over a black & purple striped spandex fabric she’d picked up some ends of a few years ago, and never actually used (her sewing has been rudely interrupted by that whole having-children thing the last few years). And then yesterday, while ogling her stash during a visit, she said if there was anything I wanted to use desperately, just let her know—she’d rather see it used than languish in her basement.

Dancey pose!

Dancey pose!

Moments later I was cradling two or three metres of gorgeous fabric in my greedy little arms. I did leave her the other end piece (a metre and a half or so) for some future swimsuit.

It was time for some more Fauxlodias, and, of course, a matching crop-top,

Pants. Jalie 2033 hack.

Pants. Jalie 2033 hack.

For the pants, I pulled out Jalie 3022 again, plus my add-on swoosh.

Swoosh.

Swoosh.

I didn’t want any extra seams in the back to have to match stripes across, though, so I attached the swoosh to the outseam and fudged the two back pieces into one. The back seam is pretty much straight except for a tiny dart incorporated into it at the top—i just shaved an amount equivalent to half the dart off the outseam and centre back seams. Not terribly scientific, but these are knits we’re talking about. Yay, knits. Oh, and after checking that the stretch lengthwise was similar to the stretch widthwise, I decided to run my stripes up the legs of the pants vertically. Less stripe matching to do that way. Also looking cool.

Ruched foldover waistband

Ruched foldover waistband

I wanted to add a ruched, fold-over waistband/overskirt thingy, for a bit more interest and because my hips need all the oomph they can get. I got the inspiration for the construction from the mini-skirt on Jalie 2920, but I didn’t actually use that pattern because it’s over at my sister-in-law’s house since the last time I made leggings for little girls.

Back View

Back View

It’s a short skirt with side-seams, mirrored at the hem, so the hem ends up being on the fold. When sewing up the side-seams, I added clear elastiic, stretched as much as I could, so that they would gather themselves up. Then I sandwiched 1.5″ wide elastic between the two layers at the top, and serged the whole thing to the top of the pants. I decided to put the serged seam on the outside, so that it’s covered by the fold-over of the ruched-up “skirt” when you’re wearing it.

Pensive.

Pensive.

The crop-top is the top of the franken-pattern I put together for my red velvet dress, which is largely Kwik Sew 1288, with a few modifications for fit based on my Nettie, cut on the bias with CB and CF seams to make that fun chevron.

Crop top. Looks better on.

Crop top. Looks better on.

Because I’ve been aching for a good striped knit to try that chevron design. (OK, I could perhaps have tried it with my black and white striped spandex, but I didn’t think of it in time.)

Chevron!

Chevron!

This stripe isn’t quite as nice quality-wise as that black-and-white one, by the way, although it’s close. The fabric is a little thinner, and the stripes were a bit irregular in some places, which is really weird and makes it really hard to stripe-match. Fortunately it’s a knit, so the fit is fairly forgiving. For a finish, I just serged the edges, folded under, and topstitched with a triple-step zig-zag. I feel like this is a legitimate finish for dancewear, at least, if not for regular clothes. 😉

Back view (full)

Back view (full)

Of course, the best part is how excited I am to go to dance practice this week, so I can wear my new outfit… 😉

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Dancy-pants Jr.

Kwik Sew 3498

Kwik Sew 3498

Syo also wants Fauxlodias. For whatever reason, I didn’t want to make her some just like mine, from Jalie 3022, so I looked around and eventually went out and bought (!) Kwik Sew 3498. Because, apparently there is a pattern-style out there that I don’t already own.

Kwik Sew 3498

Kwik Sew 3498

Not being as trusting of Kwik Sew patterns as Jalie (I just haven’t made quite as many, and some people report them being oversized, although the pattern reviews for this pattern were reassuring on that front), I wanted to make a trial version before I went all crazy ruffly. So I used up much of the last of my supplex making a plain-Jane version. Syo isn’t thrilled about this, but she will survive—although whether this pair ever gets worn again remains up in the air. Personally, I think they’re a great style, the sort of thing you can wear to dance practice or around the house or even to school without looking out of place, but I’m over thirty so my opinion doesn’t count. 😉

Attitude

She is not as in love with them as I am.

I made the size L (10), which is a smidgeon larger than Syo’s hip measurement. After measuring her inseam, I added 3 cm to the length, which I have to say was not an alteration I ever expected to make for a child who was never over the 5th percentile for height. Having compared the pattern with the Jalie 3247 shorts I made Syo for her birthday, I thought the rise in the KS pattern was a bit high (actually, I thought that just looking at the envelope models—it’s sitting in a good spot on them but it looks like they have pulled the crotch down to somewhere it wouldn’t normally sit). I removed 1.5 cm from the front, and took a wedge out from nothing at the CB seam to 1.5 cm at the side-seam (the exact opposite of what I usually do to Jalie patterns, by the way. 😉 ) They are still plenty high enough.

Pose

Pose

The length is ample but not really excessive—for dance pants I don’t regret adding it (although it occurs to me that I will probably have to shave it off in the flare version since that will probably have rolled hems), and it gives her a bit of room to grow. Assuming she ever voluntarily wears these. But if she doesn’t, I can still hope that Fyon will. Or the Waif. The great part about having a string of girls in the family.

Waistband

Waistband

The coolest feature of these pants (aside from the “basic stretch pants with side-seam” that I was looking for), is the V-option front waistband. I made it up exactly as directed. I’m not sure if that little dip-down is me or the pattern or just a natural feature of this kind of finish when it’s slack; it’s much less evident when she’s wearing them, which you can kinda-sorta-see if you scroll down to the last picture in this post. I added (or tried to add) clear elastic into the seam where the band attaches, to give a bit more stay-up-oomph to the pants. This worked OK where I didn’t slice half the elastic off with the overlocker. There is apparently an elastic-applicator foot for my new serger. I want.

Back View

Back View

There is plenty of length, but they don’t drag on the ground (and that’s in bare feet.)

Hemz

Hemz

The pattern calls for one-inch hems, which I gave a try at. I hate hemming knits—none of my machines are particularly good at it. This is the triple-zig-zag stitch on the White, and at the presser-foot-pressure-setting (say that ten times fast, I dare you.) that doesn’t produce ripples, it also barely feeds the fabric through, so it’s really hard to keep the stitch-length even. However, they’re not overly visible so I’ll call it a win, for me if not for home-sewing-is-as-good-as-storebought. While I’m fantasizing, someday I will have a coverstitch machine. Someday.

Side view

Side view

There is plenty of coverage for her round derriere. Although Syo has my broad shoulders, she also appears to be getting at least a modified version of the Gigi butt.

Numba 1

Numba 1

She is very disappointed that this version didn’t have a knee-high slit. Also I was making her pose in full-length pants (wicking material or no) on a hot day right before going to her friends’ house for a sleepover. So maybe she’ll feel more enthusiastic about these later. Maybe?

Hey, a mom can hope. I guess at worst, I could cut them off into short shorts. She wears the snot out of those.

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Faux-lodias

Melo-Phoenix, batik

Melo-Phoenix, batik

Have you heard of Melodia Designs? No? Where HAVE you been? She only makes some the best dance/yoga activewear on the internet, duh. In particular, she pioneered (revolutionized?) the tribal bellydance wardrobe with her richly flared, side-slit dance pants, which in certain circles are the standard for awesome, high-quality dancewear, for practice or performance.

Icarus Melo-Phoenix Dance Pants

Icarus Melo-Phoenix Dance Pants

I have a single pair, a style which arose from a collaboration between Melodia Designs and Phoenix Rising (an equally cool dance/yoga/activewear line), Icarus-patterned Melo-Phoenixes. DIVINE. Here’s the current lineup, although it looks like Icarus is still available in their standard yoga-pants style. This pair of pants is probably one of my most-prized (and most expensive) possessions. And they are very well-made, with the kinds of materials and workmanship (hello, coverstitch) I can’t nearly match at home. If this kind of gear suits your lifestyle or tickles your fancy, I totally recommend it. In fact, looking at the websites just now I’m feeling all twitchy and consumeristic in a way that I rarely get over cut & sewn fabric these days.

I only have one problem—I don’t fall really well within the size vs. length ranges of these pants. For my Melos, I had to size up to a medium to get a 32″ inseam, which is tolerable but doesn’t give the kind of floor-swooshing grace that really knocks ones’ metaphorical socks off (since really, this kind of pants look ridiculous with socks.) And, while not loose, they’re not as form-hugging as they might be.

And, well, why would I buy when I can make?

Enter Jalie 3022. I was probably thinking of this pattern hack as soon as I saw the fun back-seam that makes this otherwise basic yoga-pants pattern unique—don’t ask me why it took three or more years to actually get around to it.

 

Melodia vs. Fauxlodia

Melodia vs. Fauxlodia

I traced my flare off the side of my originals (I don’t have time to reinvent the wheel, or the flare, in this case. Yes, I do feel a little guilty about that.), and super-imposed it on the rear seam of my Jalie 3022 pattern. The best part was that, since the flare is a bit short for my legs, it sits lower on my really-long pattern, so the flare starts below the knee, not above, a sleek look I really like (although there’s less skirt-like movement this way than with pants that flared from above the knee.)

 

Jalie 3022, with back-seam

Jalie 3022, with back-seam

My fabric of choice here is red supplex, a wicking fabric that Fabricland used to carry, long and long ago. I found a single languishing bolt at my local store, and managed to follow it along through the mark-downs until it was finally at a price I could afford, and nabbed the last three metres. These took about two and a half, which tells you everything you need to know about how much fabric those flares eat up. Nom nom nom.

Flares from the back seam

Flares from the back seam

I did all the construction on my spanky new serger, and finished the back slits and the bottoms with a rolled hem, with my differential feed cranked up to lend a bit of a lettuce-y effect; the stretchy, dense fabric doesn’t ruffle overly well, but I think it gives a bit of a hint. The only topstitching I did on this pair was on the inseam, where I used a triple zig-zag, for added strength. I will probably need to reinforce the seam at the top of the slit, too.

Nettie crop-top to go with

Nettie crop-top to go with

And, of course, what to go with my cute and fun pants, but another Nettie crop top. I haven’t managed to make a fully-fledged bodysuit yet (partly because it’s summer now and not really body-suit weather, so I haven’t felt terribly inclined to try), but I am loving the crop tops for dance practice.

The outfit

The outfit

I confess, I am all squeally over how they look—better than I had hoped. I was secretly sure that the swoop would be disproportionate, or fall strangely, or something. It was a little long (my altered-for-me pattern is ridiculously long, but I like it that way.)

A different crappy mirror shot

A different crappy mirror shot

I don’t think any of my photos really do them justice, but if I wait for great photos it’ll probably be next year sometime, so here we go. I just can’t wait for dance class next week. 🙂

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