Tag Archives: plans

Finds

'vintage' patterns---3 for 99 cents

I did at last manage to drag my sister-in-law to Value Village this morning for a quick trawl. Apologies for the crummy camera-phone pictures, the real camera’s battery is dead at the moment.

Nothing stupendously amazing. A nice sundress pattern with similar detailing to a 30s

A cute sundress with some nice details

nightgown (wonder if I could cut it on the bias and omit the zipper?)

They have this technique where they stuff two ugly patterns in a baggie with one nicer one for 99 cents (the same price as the individual patterns, by the way). So I got this cute 70s empire-waist, princess seam dress and a couple of so-so kids patterns. I really liked the dress, though.

Here’s the kicker. Can you make out what it says in the red writing above the size? Maybe not, the pictures are spectacularly sucky. It says…

Maternity!  I just scored a 70s maternity pattern! (And my mom swears all 70s maternity wear was awful!). Oopsie. Since I have no intention of including any further procreation in my life plan, this is fairly amusing, but hopefully I can just reduce the amount of gathering at that bottom front panel and have a wearable, non-maternity dress. (For the record, I don’t think those girls on the pattern envelope look pregnant at all—or even old enough to be pregnant, for that matter!)

Wool plaid and herringbone, and a 70s maternity pattern!

I also grabbed a couple of smallish pieces of wooly fabric, a lightweight plaid with some pink in it and a heavy grey herringbone. There might just be enough of the plaid for a pencil skirt, or maybe an A-line jumper for one of the kids (assuming I can get them to wear anything scratchy like that!). The herringbone wants to be a jacket but I strongly doubt there’s enough of it there (plus grey is probably not the best colour near my face), but maybe a longer or flaring gored skirt. Something with some girly detail to offset the boring colour.

You will note that neither of these fabrics is even remotely suited to the patterns I picked up. /sigh.

So anyway, that’s the story. We’re off to the lake tonight so I will be incommunicado for a few days and probably have nothing to say for a few more after. What do you think should be the first thing I sew when I get back? I’m thinking the next set of jeans, but there’s also another whack at the Lydia T-shirt pattern, or a skirt. It would be fun to do a skirt. I’ve never done one.

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Planning

The Lake... we may or may not make it this far this year.

So, the sewing is about to take a break as we head off for the yearly “vacation” back home. I love going home—it’s way more exciting to visit than it was when we lived there! And I miss my kids. Older daughter is turning 10 tomorrow; she sounds so grown up on the phone. House is almost clean, laundry’s mostly done, keys are with the housesitter. No empty house this year—we learned our lesson (and you don’t ever want to wake up at one in the morning while camping, with crappy cell coverage, to a dropped call trying to tell you your house an eight our drive away has just been robbed. Thank goodness for tenant insurance. Anyway).

So, the sewing is going to be a little light for a while, but I hope to hit up the thrift stores in my home town (which tend to be a little more exciting than my local Value Village) so hopefully I’ll trip over some cool fabric or patterns. And when I get back—it’s time to prep hardcore for Self Stitched September!

On that front, a little bit of planning.

I’ve done not too badly on the tops front, assuming any of them are still wearable by then (the cowl-necks out of that really thin knit are not holding up well). I still need:

  • at least one more pair of jeans (two if I get ambitious; I think I have enough fabric for two)
  • something warm. My hubby has been trying to get me into one of those convertible cardigans that are basically just a big rectangle with sleeves attached. Actually, he’s been trying to get me into anything that isn’t a slouchy hoodie. The storebought ones always have too-short sleeves, but obviously I can fix that if I’m making my own. There’s a tutorial out there but I’m too lazy right now to track it down and link it—sorry.
  • more tops. I still need a long-sleeved shirt or two or three or five. I foresee more experiments with the Lydia pattern. Will need to find more good knits for that.
  • And lastly (and maybe not something I’ll tackle in time for September)—in my efforts to make myself a winter coat, I’ve been neglecting something. You see, I’ve made it through the last five years or so without a real winter coat. I had a long, black wool, fall-weight coat that I just stuffed layers and layers underneath. Not ideal, but it worked, especially after moving here three years ago, as the winters are not exactly severe by Canadian standards. But, as of this spring that coat has been declared dead, so not only am I out a winter coat, I’m out my fall and spring coat, too. I do have a backup that works in a pinch, a gorgeous flowing tan jersey trench-type thing, but, in its stylishness, it HAS NO BUTTONS. I understand why. They’d totally wreck the flow of it. But it does limit its utillity a bit (which is, no doubt, why I found it for a song at the thrift store ten years ago, and why it’s remained in largely pristine condition while I’ve worn my way through any number of other long coats). So, once it gets too chilly for my jean jacket, there may well be a period of time where it’s not yet cold enough for my uber-winter-jacket (even assuming I have that finished in September, which is a big if). Obviously, I need to make a fall-weight coat. In my ideal world, this would be a Lady Grey Hudson’s Bay Blanket Coat.

Hudson's Bay Company Point Blankets

Perhaps a bit of backstory is in order. The Hudson’s Bay Company started out at a fur-trade company across the Canadian Northwest, however many hundreds of years ago now. They set up trading posts across much of Canada, trading the highly desirable furs trapped and hunted by First Nations people for a variety of European goods. Including the now-famous Hudson’s Bay point blankets, heavy pre-shrunk wool creations. The most famous are cream with four coloured stripes across one end, and of course the black points. My personal favourites are solid red, with a black stripe. These blankets were valued for many things, not the least of which was making coats; originally of course, only the blankets were sold/traded, and people made the coats themselves. More recently, as the HBC expanded into one of the largest department stores in Canada, they began to sell coats made from the blankets themselves. Fast forward to the late 1970s, when my parents were first married; my father bought my mother a Hudson’s Bay blanket coat (if you knew my parents, you would understand this says a lot about them). A full-length, black-and-red, wonderfully warm blanket coat. I imagine my mother wore it, although not overly much.

When I was 17 or 18, I discovered it. It was my first full-length coat, and the first time I ever felt like anything other than a blob during the winter months.

A crappy picture of a gorgeous coat

People on the street stopped me and told me I looked like a movie star. It was awesome. I wore it to death (I still feel bad for that), until the lining was ripped (I patched it), the armpits were pulled out, and the back was almost worn through from my backpacks. That’s it on the right—the only picture I seem to have of if (a terrible one of me, by the way, but the coat still holds its own, I think). You can, however, observe the too-short sleeves. Yes, even my favourite coat of all time had too-short sleeves.

Anyway, I would love to have another HBC blanket coat. And I would love to have a Lady Grey coat. So wouldn’t it be awesome to combine the two? (The bonus—the shorter Lady Grey coat presumably wouldn’t require quite as much fabric as a full length coat. Those blankets are EXPENSIVE!). The only worry I have is that the blanket might be a bit too heavy for the pattern; it’s heavier than a standard wool coating, that’s for sure.

I don’t know if this will happen in September, or even this fall. I still don’t even own the Lady Grey pattern (I am promising to reward myself with it when I finish two of my current three projects at work, but it’s not going well). I certainly don’t have a HBC blanket or two kicking around, and they are not cheap as material goes.

But man, it would be sweet, sweet, sweet.

Anyway, until  next post, au revoir!

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My head is full…

Of ideas I’m not going to have time to make.

I still have at least 3 items to make on the “for other people” list. None of these are really optional.

  • jean jacket for my younger daughter
  • top/dress for my younger niece
  • another shirt for the hubby (actually the same shirt, but in this fabric.) This one will probably drive me nuts. But not as nuts him bugging me about sewing it for him. I’ll start as soon as I’ve picked up some knit interfacing. And recovered from the trauma of cutting out that cowl top.

As for the “me” list? It’s long, disorganized, and different things keep bubbling to the top.

  • I want to do another set of jeans (and so much for having the fit scoped out… the black ones stretched out when I washed them and now need to be taken in at least 1/4″ on each side. I guess I should wash and re-try them on before I put the waistband on…)
  • I want to try a simple shirred top out of the white crinkle voile. But if I’m going to do shirring, I should really do some things for the kids to practice first.
  • I want to make a white sundress (also out of the crinkle voile, but I would need something else for the lining, and I really don’t want to buy more fabric right now)
  • It would be fun to make a skirt. I haven’t made myself an everyday kind of skirt, ever, I guess.
  • various tunic tops keep bubbling through my head. I like things fitted around the bust, but I don’t like zippers for everyday clothes… I saw an idea on Burdastyle where a simple top like this was pulled in at the back with several horizontal elastics. Lacing could also work, but that’s a bit more work…
  • and a tank top
  • and a batwing top
  • and another whack at the Anna top
  • and, and, and…

Okies, you get the idea.

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Curse the Fabricland 50% off sale!

Coat Materials: (clockwise from left) fashionf abric, foiled underlining, plain underlining, Kasha lining right side, Kasha lining wrong side

It always strikes right AFTER I’ve spent my (non-existent) fun money. But, this time I bit the bullet. I got the remainder of my coat materials (lining and interlining… even at 50% off, 5m of Kasha lining still adds up). I got a metre each of two different kinds of insulating underlining, one with a fancy silvery side to reflect heat, one which is just plain white. Neither is very thick; they’re not at all drapy, but I think they’ll be fine in the bodice and maybe sleeves. I’m thinking the reflective one for the bodice and maybe the plain white for the sleeves if I think they need it/can take it. And I gave in and got the grey Kasha. They didn’t have black, and I didn’t like the two possible colours, a dull dark blue and a very orangey red, that they did have. I love red, but I like my reds deep and possibly leaning towards maroon. Not orangey. So pale grey it is… though I will probably regret it when it gets incredibly dirty after a few weeks of wear. Anyway—excited to have progress (however expensive) on that front!

Cottons for unselfish sewing: (clockwise from upper left) print poplin, white crinkle voile, pink poplin solid, yellow stripe "seersucker"

I also picked up some lightweight cottons for my unselfish-sewing. Ugh. A pink solid and pink print of cotton poplin (somehow I thought poplin was heavier, but this is what the bolts said), for the one niece, and a nice yellow striped  seersucker-looking thing from the bargain centre for the other (who doesn’t have to live in pink all the time). I would’ve liked a cool, edgier print… maybe little skulls with bows or something—but this was what they had (and lots of other, even more nauseating, prints). The white is a crinkle cotton voile I will use for the hubby’s flowy overshirt.

I resisted the denims staunchly.

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Adventures in denim

Kids' Jean Jacket pattern

Kids' Jean Jacket pattern

Last night I traced out Burda 9610  (jacket only) in kids size 7 and 9 (122 and 134 Burda sizes). These may be a bit big (the other stuff I’ve made them has been size 7 and 4, respectively, but I’m not sure that the Burda “equivalent US sizes” are actually equivalent) but I don’t have the kids handy to measure, and I kinda want these jackets to be presents for when we do see them next at the end of July. And yes, I have measured them before and written it all down. And promptly lost the paper. Although that was a few months ago, and the pesky things do tend to keep growing.

So, now I have the patterns traced out (fifteen pieces each for the jacket! That’s a bit different from that cowl-neck top!) and a *bit* more of an insight into how they will eventually go together. My main disappointment at the moment is to realize that they don’t really have pockets. Not only are there no side pockets, that flap is strictly decorative.

I am of course plotting how to change this. Making a pocket bag and an opening underneath the flap shouldn’t be too hard. Leaving a gap in the side of the centre-front/side-front seam and putting a bag behind this should be doable with just a little bit more ingenuity.

Also, I should think about seam bindings. I’ve never done un-lined jackets before (Hmm, now I’m thinking about lining them, maybe in a colourful fleece. Next time, Taran!). Since I can’t just serge everything, I’m thinking a hong-kong finish kinda thing. Best of all, since I’m not going to be fitting these as I go, I can do at least some of the bindings before the seams are sewn. Yay!

Next question: sparkly (under) side of the denim out, or subtler, less-sparkly “right” side of the denim out? Or a mix? Or just make at least the older daughter’s out of my black denim? (But I want the black denim for me!)

Also, while I’m sewing for children, I should whip up some little sundresses or something for my nieces. I hate to do this much unselfish sewing (I’m not as vocal about it as the Selfish Seamstress but I really do have a hard time putting a whole lot of effort into sewing for other people), but my sister-in-law is looking after my kids for the month. So that might fall under Advanced Selfish Seamstressing. I should call her and get their measurements and maybe quiz her on good colours/styles they don’t already have.

And, because I can’t spend all this time just sewing for others, I’m going to lengthen my Jalie capris pattern and get started on some full-length jeans for me! 🙂

Wow, ambitious much?

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Up Next

Wow, the Danielle Dress has occupied my brain so long, I feel all floaty now that it’s done. What will I do? What will I sew?

Now, I’ve spent lots of time rambling in the past about things I want to make in the future. It is a very long, ever-evolving list. It includes:

This is without even bringing up crazier things like making my own sailor-shorts.

Most of the heavier stuff I don’t really want to tackle until August (though I would like to knock out one pair of jeans in July), but right now I think I’m leaning towards starting the burda jackets and (because I want to be working on something for me, as well) experimenting with a knit top or two. Which raises the question: which knit top?

The options are as follows:

  • batwing top
  • sleeveless cowl-neck top (the Selfish Seamstress’s or Ichigo Girl’s; despite my fondness for the Selfish Seamstress, I think I might go with the second one just so that I don’t have to grade the pattern up)
  • long-sleeve T (I would probably trace a pattern off one I have)
  • tank-top (again, tracing a pattern off one I have)… I’d like to do this with fold-over elastic at the top, which my Fabricland didn’t appear to have. Their notions selection is really crappy—I’ll have to check the other location this weekend.

In other news, I had a bit of a me-made holiday over the weekend, since I got to wear my Danielle Dress to the wedding and my Jalie capris almost every other day.  Now I’m home, wearing all RTW feels sorta… boring.

Okay, I think I’ve convinced myself. It will be Ichigogirl’s cowl-neck top/dress (top version), out of my flimsy white knit. I will double-line the top, so it doesn’t need a facing. I may narrow the shoulder-seams a bit, too, as I think that would look cute. Down with knitophobia!

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Good news and catastrophe averted

Actually, catastrophe identified as due to user error. I had a huge panic (and didn’t get much sewing done) last night when my sewing machine started skipping stitches like crazy.  I thought perhaps it was the slinky lining fabric, so I tried on some cotton. Same deal. Oh, crap, I am thinking, I can’t have my machine die on me! It’s not even three years old, and it’s not like I’ve been sewing on it heavy duty all that time. What could have happened? I twiddled with my tension (no luck), rethreaded, re-loaded my bobbin, wondered sinkingly if my bobbin tension was off… and went to bed with visions of hand sewing my entire lining dancing in my head. I mean, I’m planning on hand-hemming, and I might even hand-pick my zipper… but constructing the ENTIRE lining?

It wasn’t until I woke up this morning that it occurred to me that the needle—which I had pulled out to check the gauge of last night before tackling the lining, just to make sure it wasn’t a denim needle—might not have been put back in right. Alternatively, I should definitely try a new needle since that one was probably getting dull.

Yes, folks, I had managed to not put the needle back in all the way; it was sitting far too low down. New needle, inserted all the way—and I had to catch myself; I almost only put it in partway again—and it’s sewing like a charm. BIG relief.  So my lining is now at least halfway constructed, and this afternoon/evening, barring any new hiccoughs, I will have it installed. I guess I should get to work on the sleeves, too.

The other good news is that  orange-stained white knit. It spent all yesterday afternoon soaking in Oxy-Clean in the tub; after that and two cycles (with more Oxy) in the washing machine, it is now almost completely stain free. And gorgeous, albeit really thin… any shirt will have to be double-layered in the front. Makes me wish my serger were functioning… maybe when I get back after this weekend I will have to take another look at it. Who knows—maybe it’s just the needle.

I should be so lucky.

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Moratorium

Denim

Denim, denim, knit. The greyish denim is actually slightly sparkly.

might be too big of a word for it, but it’s gotta be almost time to stop buying fabric and start SEWING. Yesterday I bought 3m of sparkly blue, slightly stretchy denim, and 4m of a stained, really fine white knit ($2/m!!! yes it looks like crap, but even if I can’t get the stains out I can use it for muslin/knit-sewing practice without feeling guilty!)

Lovely stains!

The picture also shows a bit of the 1m remnant of dark-blue stretch denim I picked up last week. I think I’m set for denim for a while.

In my own defense, the sparkly denim is for the Burda kids’

Burda kids' jean jacket pattern

jean jacket pattern that I picked up last week. I also grabbed a variety of topstitching and denim thread for upcoming projects. And I still need to find a fabric if I want to make my hubby a shirt for the mediaeval faire later this summer (it’s not until mid-August, though, so that’s not too big a deal). And I wouldn’t mind some white cotton to make me a few more summery blouse/tops…who knows, maybe even a summery white sundress. Ok girl, getting ahead of yourself. Quit justifying. Start sewing.

I did (by dint of some tantrum-throwing) get some work done on the Danielle dress last night, which I will photograph later. Now that it’s sewn to the band, the bust is doing something wonky, so I will a) have to re-sew that seam, and/or b) wear the Cast-Iron Bra* underneath. I still have to cut out the lining, too. I really shouldn’t let myself get this far ahead in the construction before everything’s cut out. I hate linings. Actually, I just hate cutting, so it’s better to get it all out of the way at once, while I’m in that space. But I did the cutting early last week and didn’t get the lining fabric until Friday, so I’m kinda hosed on that front.

*the Cast-Iron Bra is a heavy duty, add-a-cup-size, molded foam bra. Its shape and fullness are lovely and absolutely unrelated to what I happen to have to fill it with. The first time I wore it to work, I kept waiting for someone to call me on it… “c’mon, we saw you yesterday… who do you think you’re fooling?” 😉 )

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Sewing stuff to buy (and other rambles)

Tomorrow is payday. No big splurges, but here’s my list:

  1. double jeans needle
  2. 6 m kasha lining for winter coat (assuming linings are still 2-for-1) (depending on how wide the lining is… if it’s narrow I’ll need 8m)
  3. 2-3 m black lining for the Danielle dress. Have decided I should line as well as underline.
  4. topstitching thread for jeans (I think something silvery might look nice with the black denim.)

Anything else? Not that I really NEED. (Ok, the only thing on that list that I actually need this pay-period is the black lining for the Danielle. But I hate to miss a sale on the lining, and I’m itching to have the stuff around for the jeans, even if I don’t get around to them for a few more weeks). There are some other fabrics ‘n things on the wish list, though:

  • a handkerchief linen or linen blend for a mediaeval-faire shirt for Robin (there’s one at a semi-nearby town in August! Wow!)
  • some kind of knit. I yearn to break free of my fear of sewing with knits. And I actually saw some nice ones last time I was at Fabricland (somehow, when I have no money all the fabric looks nicer…)
  • some kind of pattern to sew the knits with.
  • something red and rich-looking to make a surcote for my mediaeval gown (for the same mediaeval faire) (Alternatively I could wear my turkish dancer pieces and go that route, but I would need to make some outer layers since the ones I have complete class more as “underwear”)
  • a blue “metallic”/shiny brocade to make a vest for Robin.
  • shirring elastic (just for fun.)

I have the Danielle mostly cut out (aside from a lining). Unfortunately, I just realized that the front skirt (cut on fold) I cut all around. STOOPID! I swear on the pattern the line looked curved, but no… when I went to cut the underlining (and noticed the problem) it is straight indeed. And of course there is not enough left to recut. I am thinking I will try and put a little pleat panel of a contrast fabric (the same that the waistband and sleeves will be made of) at the centre front and hope that that looks cool and intentional.

I also spent some time yesterday when I should have been working playing with the Port Elizabeth shirt pattern off Burdastyle. I think it could be a base for my Sencha-style blouse idea, though by the time I’m done with it I think the resemblance to either pattern will be passing. This is a user-uploaded pattern and I’m not super thrilled with it, but with any luck it will serve my purposes…

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That’s it.

I want a duct-tape double.

Not that I’d scoff at a fully-fledged dress form (most duct-tape doubles are a touch ugly, and not always as accurate as you would hope) but I’d rather spend my money on fabric (speaking of, the linings at Fabricland were on sale buy 1m, get 1 free last week, which is the sale I need to get my lining for my winter coat—and I had no money. Hopefully it will still be ongoing come payday. They don’t have black, but they do have oodles of a light grey that would work. Alternatively I could go for a crazy colour—burgundy, say, or teal—and have an awesome surprise inside my coat. I like that thought, actually).

So, doubles. I want to be able to fit stuff (especially in the back!) and that’s just hard to do on yourself. And I’m going to need something to hang my coat on for hemming—that big skirt is going to have tons of bias stretching out at the hem that will need to be trimmed before hemming. Not hard to do when someone else is wearing the garment, but hard to do yourself. If I make one over a coat-hanger, I can hang it in the closet and keep it out of the way when not in use, too.

Also, I can spend way more time than I can possibly justify reading about tailoring.

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