Category Archives: Sewing

What do you do…

When your interfacing doesn’t come wide enough for the piece that needs to be interfaced? What a pain in the butt! Anyway, the 2nd shirt for the sweetie is cut out. This pretty much uses up the last of that fabric, thank the gods. Really thin, no recovery, and a b#$% to cut out. I am much more excited about the other two knits I have, especially this blue one I posted yesterday. It’s going to look adorable with the cream elastic and cream topstitching. But the sweetie’s shirt first. I bought a metre of knit interfacing, thinking surely this would be plenty. This is my first time using a knit interfacing, and my first time interfacing a knit.

Can I just say, what a pain? Although the fabric doesn’t roll too badly at the edges (its one saving grace), the interfacing does like CRAZY. Also, do not drag the iron while you’re fusing.

Did I mention, don’t drag the iron around?

Even once you think it’s all fused in place.

Don’t even slide it. Not even a millimetre.

Yes, you. You, too.

Let’s just say, there’s going to be some bad creases that will hopefully be hidden inside the button placket.

And then, after blockfusing a ton, I realize that the interfacing itself isn’t wide enough for the back piece. What do you do in this situation? I wouldn’t want to change the grain (the knit interfacing stops almost all lengthwise stretch but leaves plenty widthwise). Butt the interfacing pieces up against each other? Overlap slightly? Either way, I think you’d have a problem. What I did, since I had already blockfused the whole freakin’ piece, was to narrow the back yoke. So now I need to mess with the neckline and quite possibly the shoulder-widths. Bleh. And, after cutting out the back yoke, the rest wasn’t long enough to do my front placket, so the bottom of that is pieced in. Hopefully I can get the seams to line up, although with the bubbling I mentioned above, I think I’m just going to hope no one ever looks closely at the inner placket at all. Ever.

The interfacing leaves the fabric surprisingly soft. Although it no longer crawls around and sticks to itself, it’s still very pliable and slippery. So it goes from being an absolute pain in the backside to cut, to merely being annoying.

I also tried out the pinning-the-fabric-to-the-carpet method for cutting it out this time. I think that’s a real method. At least, I’m pretty sure I’ve read about other people pinning out difficult fabric on various boards and things. Anyway, I had the carpet.

It worked… somewhat. Though I tried not to stretch it too much, a certain amount of that almost has to happen with this fabric to get it to sit smooth (or, y’know, I’m incompetent). Even with all the fussing with pins, it was less of a pain to get the two layers spread out with a passably straight folded edge. Cutting out itself was a little trickier; I think some angled shears would be perfect for this kind of thing. Or a rotary cutter—except, y’know, my carpet. My biggest hesitation is, due to the stretching, I’m not sure that the actual size of the pieces was particularly true, nor am I sure how consistent the stretching was. Ah well. I guess we’ll see how it all sews up, won’t we?

“Gonna finish my shirt today?” says the boy as he leaves for work this morning.

I may have created a monster. I need to get some “u owe me” labels like the Selfish Seamstress has. Ones that come with an itemized list.

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Weak

3m for 99 cents? I'll take it (now what do I do with it?)

Weak, weak, weak. Bad enough I snatched up this huge bit of upholstry fabric at Value Village (it was mis-priced to $0.99—who could resist?) and then splurged on cute ribbons at Michael’s. Then I popped by Fabricland to pick up knit fusible interfacing and discovered the lace and fancy elastic section (apparenly I had been looking the wrong areas). And some other interfacings and a blue knit and the Burda tracing paper. I couldn’t find the Solvy I swear I saw there last time, and I resisted the darker shade of red Kasha lining they now apparently have (where were you last week during the 50% off sale, I ask you?). It’s amazing how all the little things add up, really. But I think I’m set for my next few projects, anyway.

Ribbons and lace and elastic, oh my!

At VV I did also pick up a couple of patterns, a very 70s halter sundress (not exactly what I’ve been envisioning, but I can see it making a nice summery dress, not to mention a top or two) and this cute little A-line kids sundress pattern. Y’know,

Patterns!

as if there weren’t enough things you could do with the Popover Sundress.

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Foiled! … and some minor progress

A ruffly halter for my younger niece

Aww, I’d been doing so well at posting daily, too. Ah well. I have good news and bad news. The bad news is twofold. On the one hand, I ran out of tracing paper while trying to trace out a full version of my winter coat. I’ve been using one of those big Ikea rolls of kids’ paper; not ideal, but cheap. However, maybe for this I should deal and get the real pattern tracing paper, that might have wider piece? Either way, it’s not likely to be before this weekend. So much for my resolution to do at least one thing per week on the winter coat. Meh. The other bad news is that I wore my nifty cowl top today, and once again this fabric has like no recovery. I swear it grew a good two inches all around on me today. Also I should’ve ran some elastic inside the cowl itself to help it stay on my shoulders better. Next time. If there is a next time. So not really a problem with the pattern or even my sewing, just the crummy fabric. That’s what you get for $2/metre.

back view of ruffled halter top

On the plus side, I got this twee little ruffled halter from Oliver + S finished for my younger niece. Because I am teh awesome at placing, it used up less than 1m of fabric despite the bias ruffles, so I am thinking of making some shorts (with a ruffle) to go with it. I have a pattern I could use from my store of “vintage” (mostly eighties) kids and babies patterns. Heck, with the fabric I have leftover I could make a whole nother popover dress (not the gathered version, though, which took a bit over 2m of fabric.)

I think I’d enjoy sewing kids clothing much more if I weren’t doing it in such candy-sweet colours. My own fault, I know. My hubby’s best friend is expecting a second baby this summer… I should really make something for them (especially as his wife, who terrifies me with her sewing prowess, has done the same for our girls a couple of times. I finally feel like I might be able to make something worthy of her children. Actually… this exact same halter in black would be awesome for their older daughter… :D) Just what I need. More sewing for kids. At least it’s quick and doesn’t take up much fabric. Just not nearly so satisfying…

I should probably bite the bullet and cut out my hubby’s next shirt, since the pattern’s out and lying on the livingroom floor (no doubt driving him nuts… he’s the neat freak in the family). But I don’t wanna! I wanna sew something else for meeee. Something that’s not out of crappy knit. I have another knit to try, after all. Or I could give the Anna top another try. I really think it would work if I switched back to the original cup piece (I had reduced the size and it was too small, believe it or not. My hubby says my breasts are nowhere near as small as I think they are… I think he’s on glue, of course). There’s still some issues with the back, but I could just add some lacing in back there to make the fit adjustable. I love lacing. :). And then there’s this awesome pattern I’m just salivating over… I think that might be the winner for what to do with my striped denim, except there’s no way I’d have enough to do the flounce. I could do that out of something else, though… another denim, or maybe a cotton eyelet (would that be too country?).

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My head is full…

Of ideas I’m not going to have time to make.

I still have at least 3 items to make on the “for other people” list. None of these are really optional.

  • jean jacket for my younger daughter
  • top/dress for my younger niece
  • another shirt for the hubby (actually the same shirt, but in this fabric.) This one will probably drive me nuts. But not as nuts him bugging me about sewing it for him. I’ll start as soon as I’ve picked up some knit interfacing. And recovered from the trauma of cutting out that cowl top.

As for the “me” list? It’s long, disorganized, and different things keep bubbling to the top.

  • I want to do another set of jeans (and so much for having the fit scoped out… the black ones stretched out when I washed them and now need to be taken in at least 1/4″ on each side. I guess I should wash and re-try them on before I put the waistband on…)
  • I want to try a simple shirred top out of the white crinkle voile. But if I’m going to do shirring, I should really do some things for the kids to practice first.
  • I want to make a white sundress (also out of the crinkle voile, but I would need something else for the lining, and I really don’t want to buy more fabric right now)
  • It would be fun to make a skirt. I haven’t made myself an everyday kind of skirt, ever, I guess.
  • various tunic tops keep bubbling through my head. I like things fitted around the bust, but I don’t like zippers for everyday clothes… I saw an idea on Burdastyle where a simple top like this was pulled in at the back with several horizontal elastics. Lacing could also work, but that’s a bit more work…
  • and a tank top
  • and a batwing top
  • and another whack at the Anna top
  • and, and, and…

Okies, you get the idea.

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Another (not so) quick cowl top

Manequim Cowl Top

This one is based on another free online pattern. The catch? It’s this pattern! Yup, you’re right, that entire website, complete with plenty of gorgeous patterns, is in Portuguese. And no, my Portuguese isn’t so good. Actualy it’s nonexistent. But seriously, we all know how well I read instructions,anyway, right? And this particular pattern has a two star difficulty rating. “Facil” it says. My Portuguese may suck, but my French is halfway-decent… I know easy when I see it. The size range isn’t great, but it works for me.

Of course, I couldn’t just sew it as is. The pattern as is (not that you can tell based on the photo since the model’s got those crazy-high waisted pants on) has a really wide, blousy bodice. Not my thing. So I pulled out the pattern for my other cowl top, compared, and pivoted until I had what I thought was a reasonable width.

I had a Plan.

I was using more of the same light, ultra-stretchy knit fabric from the first cowl. The upside of this is it was super cheap and I have a ton of it. The downside is that it’s ultra light and ultra-stretchy. Stable it is not. Sewing it actually isn’t even the problem—it’s

Manequim Cowl Top---back

getting it lined up smoothly to cut the pattern. So I really couldn’t tell you if the various places my pieces didn’t match up correspond to the problems in the pattern itself, my changes to the bodice, or my poor cutting. My guess is mostly the last. When I made the first cowl top, I doubled the front. This

Mannequim cowl top

time, I planned to double both, and thus avoid having to bind any edges. And I did it! Aside from a couple of glitches, I managed to sew every single seam on this shirt so it faced the inside, except for about three inches along one edge of the cowl drape, which I finished by hand.

Then I tried it on and had to take each side in by about half an inch. So now the side-seams aren’t nicely finished. But otherwise, it’s great! I’ll let you know how badly it stretches out in the wearing, though… that seems to be the key issue with this fabric.

As to the top itself—it’s nifty. Doesn’t really look like the model’s… I think my fabric is way too different (also my seam along the edge of the cowl really makes it less flippy, more drapy. The cowl part is really big and drapy—cool looking, but I’m still a little nervous about the way it falls. It seems like it will shift around a lot with wearing. I’m actually tempted to make some straps… we’ll see. But here’s some different possibilities for wearing it, which is kinda nifty. If I ever do make it again, I’ll make the body about an inch longer…

off-the-shoulder variation

High shoulder variation

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Men!

So… you remember the One-Day Shirt Challenge?

Well, the shirt is done. Actually, it’s a smashing success. He’s worn it almost every day since I finished it (as he wears a uniform at work his day-clothes don’t get a lot of wear). It looks especially dashing with his tight black jeans.

AND HE WON”T LET ME TAKE A PICTURE OF IT!!

“I need a shower today,” he says.

“Not now, I’m tired,” he says.

“I feel fat today,” he says (yes, my beloved boy has body-image issues.)

Seriously, I am just about ready to strangle him—or at least vow to never make him anything ever again. What’s the point of sewing him stuff if he won’t let me take pictures of it to put up here?

… okay, perhaps my priorities are a little skewed… but still. One picture? Pretty please?

So, so far, the pic on the floor is the best I can do. Just believe me that it looks really good on?

UPDATE:

Hmm, not really an improvement...

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Ruffle Dress

Pink ruffle dress---complete!

A long morning’s labour completed. What do you think of the flower? I needed

Flower decoration

something to cover up my uneven ruffle, but I didn’t want something that would stick out too far. Loosely inspired by these.

Ok, I think that’s enough sewing for others. I want something for me now, please.

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Diabetic shock…

Pink Overload!

I am in the throes of sewing a ruffly pink sundress for my niece. It is really, really sweet. I just might barf.

Can I just say, I am suddenly very proud that I never sewed anything pink for either of my daughters? Thank you, thank you very much. (Honestly, I don’t mind pink in moderation. but this… that’s a lot of pink. And it’s not cool, edgy pink with skulls on or something)

It’s based on the Oliver & S Popover Sundress, a free pattern. You can see the difference in my stylish sketch there.

My snazzy sketch.

I’m actually only using about the top 5″ of the pattern, since I needed the dress to be twirly (my niece is 3 1/2, and any skirt that doesn’t twirl out is “broken”). The rest is gathered tiers.

Which brings me to the second problem… the ruffler foot.

I learned to use a ruffler foot on my mother’s gorgeous, ancient 1960s Pfaff. You could ruffle, pleat, gather pretty near anything on that machine. And I did. Ok, I didn’t, but I made a number of tiered skirts for bellydance, which is pretty much anyone’s ruffling quotient for a lifetime (the one in that picture has 9 tiers, 7 of them ruffled, and the bottom hem consists of over 30 fabric-width (45″) strips.

When I moved away, my mom bought me a new sewing machine as a going-away present. Aww. It’s a lovely little Janome, and as you know it has sewn me through jackets and jeans with relatively little hassle. Things could be much worse. One of the little things I asked for when we got the machine, though, was a ruffler foot. I was still in dance-sewing mode, after all.

And I did, actually, manage to make one more full scale tiered skirt on my Janome. So I guess I can’t say the ruffler doesn’t work… it just doesn’t work as well. I don’t know if it’s the machine (not quite as sturdy) or the ruffler (also not quite as sturdy). It certainly can’t pleat to save your life. It does a roughly 2:1 gather on its lowest setting, and heaven help me if I want to change that. It’s little things, like the poky bit the needle sometimes hits on…

Of course, it didn’t help that last night when I was trying to start on it, I kept forgetting to put the presser foot down (it’s very hard to see the difference with the ruffler foot on… and it still ruffles, just even less well). And then somehow I managed to switch it to a zig-zag stitch…

Yeah, that doesn’t work. Remind me to pick up more needles when I’m out this afternoon…

But things are going much better this morning. I got the whole bottom tier ruffled. When I finish this post I’ll go do the second tier up. I always start at the bottom on these things, otherwise my brain breaks with the enormity of the task.

I always forget how the tiers multiply. That bottom tier was 6.6m long (6 fabric width strips) before I ruffled it. At least it’s done now!

The best thing about ruffled tiers? They use up almost ALL of the fabric. All I have left over of that ghastly pink solid is a 10″ square.

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OK, you get the idea.

Nearly done!

Sorry. Once again, impatience gets the better of me. It’s still missing the decorative snaps, but I’m showing it off anyway. In all its flawed glory. I did not include closeups of the places (cry) where I accidentally snipped the fabric with the scissors while trimming threads.

Kids' jean jacket---back

So… pattern? Nice. The front yoke seemed too wide and the front facing width was a little wonky in its width as well. Perhaps related? Perhaps due to flaws in my tracing or my failure to read the instructions carefully. I didn’t, by the way. Read the instructions, I mean. I’m not really such an advanced sewist that I should skip that, I

Front snaps!

know. It’s a bad habit. Otherwise it all went together very nicely.

As mentioned before, my bias bindiing on the inside is not the greatest. However, it is a nice flash of colour! You can see where I added in the pockets.

Today’s big experiment was the snaps. I went out and picked up two kinds, the plain silver heavy duty ones, and some cute little pearl ones. Unfortunately, I assumed that the hammer/punch tools that came with the heavy duty ones would be adequate to attach the pearl ones. (and if not, I’ve got a bunch of other punch/hammer/dies from grommets—surely something would work). Foolish, foolish me. I did manage to get one

Cute snap! Too bad it's broken!

installed on one of the waistband tabs (after cracking the pearl in two others). It looks good. But it doesn’t snap—it won’t stay shut. And I didn’t

Inside!

have enough of the big silver ones to do the decorative snaps (tabs, pocket flaps). So I’ll have to go back to the store. For more heavy duty snaps, or for the right hammering tools? We’ll see.

The sleeve shoulder topstitching was a pain in the butt.

Ooooh… look at how nicely I managed to get the undersleeve seam to match up to the back yoke seam!:

Back yoke seam matches sleeve underarm seam!

Too bad I didn’t manage to do it on the other side!

I am thinking of entering it (or the second one, which may be a little less imperfect) to the PatternReview children’s sewing contest this month. Exciting, no?

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A real oldie…

This was my highschool grad gown (aren’t I cute?). I didn’t sew it. My mom did.

The catch?

She made it for her highschool grad, in 1970.

Peach is not normally my colour, I must admit (it isn’t really one of my mother’s, either). But isn’t this an awesome dress? Square neckline, princess seamed bodice, empire waist. It doesn’t get much better, does it? And so classic. Timeless. The gloves and handbag were also from when my Mom wore it; the necklace and shoes (not shown) were my own. The wrist corsage was courtesy of my excellent grad escort. I am secretly hoping one of my girls will wear this gown some day… though at this point I’m not sure if either of them will ever be big enough. Their dad’s family is, ah, small-boned.

The trophy was for Art, by the way. Aside from this photo, walking across the stage with it was the only time it was in my possession. I have a little plaque. Somewhere.

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