Monthly Archives: August 2012

Carol Evans’ Wardrobe

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Moving stress + running errands our last day in Cow Town + 50% off sale at Value Village facilitated a bit of a splurge on vintage children’s patterns, I fear. How can you resist a bit of retail therapy for a quarter apiece?

The patterns range in size from 4 to 6X, and all seem to have been intended for wear by a girl named Carol Evans, who I presume was a vampire trapped eternally in a child’s body, since the patterns range in vintage from 50s through 70s. Or they might have been collected more recently by a mom-stitcher with a thing for vintage patterns, not unlike myself. But really, I think it’s the vampire thing.

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This fifties housecoat just may be the child’s version of this pattern, which Peter and Cathy rehabilitated so stunningly into an “Opera Coat.” I’m going to assume that our little vampire was at least as capable of turning something so drab and basic into something luxe and glamorous as Cathy is.

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This might just be the quintessential fifties little girl dress. According to this website, it’s from 1954, as is the preceding housecoat. Also, I love the little capelet. Every vampire (child) needs a capelet. Not to mention plenty of variations on a dress, for when she gets blood on it. Also, those of you who did time in Vampire: The Masquerade, dig the black satin version with the rose.

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Something about the white version of this sweet little sailor dress just makes me squee. Presumably this had a similar effect on Carol Evans. Or possibly she ran away to sea to hide her lack of aging. You have to keep moving when you’re a vampire child.

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Doesn’t this one looked sophisticated? I want to say very Jackie O, but I wasn’t around back then to observe and haven’t really researched, so you can correct me if necessary. Or maybe it’s Chanel. Doesn’t that little jacket need to be made of boucle, with a quilted lining and chain in the hem? Poor Carol has been size six for at least a decade, after all—she has to be feeling more grown-up inside than out. This is just the dress for when she wants to look like a miniature (and very chic) adult

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These two McCall’s patterns fascinate me, not so much for their contents as their style. I had instantly pegged the dress as sixties (based on the illustration style, the dress itself is such a classic I think with minor hem-length variations it would look at home in any decade since 1900. Possibly 1850.) The pants wardrobe, on the other hand, I had pegged as classic 70s. The fashions, the art, the bell-bottoms, the gingham. Then I checked the dates on both patterns. The 60s one is indeed earlier—1968. But the “70s” pattern is 1969. I kind of feel like I’ve captured the cusp of a decade in pattern form—a snapshot of the transition from one style regime to another. Especially since both are by the same company. As for Carol, well, they both obviously cater to her need to appear childlike and innocent to manipulate the adult humans around her. Can’t have anyone suspecting, after all.

The patterns go on (It appears later in the 70s Carol headed somewhere chilly and needed some serious winter gear) but I think I’ll leave it at that. Speculation on the life of Carol the vampire child welcome in the comments! 😉

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Moving Home

I imagine all of you who’ve been reading this week have realized we’re in the throes of moving.

In particular, we are Moving Home. After five years in the Big City (or the Western Canadian equivalent, anyway, which my American co-workers assure me isn’t anything like actually big), we’re moving back to our hometown, which thinks it’s a big city only because there’s no comparison within easy driving distance.

As with any such move, I’m a little torn. Part of me is excited to be back around the friends and family I’ve missed so much. Part of me feels like we’re admitting failure, running back to the small and familiar. Part of me is sad because I know it won’t be the same, regardless.

But on the sewing front, despite the intense tragedy of losing my in-home sewing room (current plan is to set up at my mother-in-law’s house, a few blocks away), I’m actually pretty excited. About (I know!) sewing for other people.

Aside from my the assortment of nieces, I am excited about sewing for my sisters-in-law and my mother.

My stylish sister-in-law is close to my size, but she’s a classic pear shape, very different from mine. We’ve been stealing each others’ clothes since we were teenagers (yes, I was still a teenager when I met her…) , with varying degrees of success. And she’s kept my children for a full month every summer for the last five years, with little or no recompense, so a bit of sewing is the least of what I owe her. Also, I’m pretty sure her figure is more-or-less what Tyo is going to end up with in a few years, so hopefully I can get ahead of the curve there. 😉

My crafty sister-in-law is a little bigger than us, and curvy, with a classic hourglass shape. She’s the only person I’ve ever measured who actually has bust, waist, and hips in the same size by the pattern envelopes, although probably she needs a smaller size in the shoulders. She’s also one of those people who never wants to spend the time and money on herself to look as good as she could—she wears oversize clothes, whatever she can pick up cheap. I’d like to help her feel as beautiful as she actually is, although how receptive she’ll be remains to be seen.

And then there’s my mother. The woman who taught me to sew. The woman who sewed the Grad Dress. The woman I learned style from, even if my style has never been on the same planet as hers. And one of the biggest crimps in my mom’s style over the years has been fit—she has the same short waist, long limbs, and square shoulders that I have,  plus a full bust—so I’m excited to get her at least a few items that actually fit, both her body and her style.

Then there’s my (almost) fifteen-year-old niece (daughter of Crafty, for those attempting to keep track). Not sure if I want to sew for her or not. I mean, I’d love to if she wanted to. (I’d love even more if we could sew together and it could be that rarest of things, adult-teenage bonding time) But it would have to be very niece-led. I have zero interest in creating something for a teenager they’re not going to wear.  And of course there’s my little nieces, who are enjoying their new dresses.

Don’t worry—I promise I’ll extract blog-modeling promises before embarking on any of this non-selfish sewing.

 

But first I need to get that sewing room set up!

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On the road.

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August 28, 2012 · 5:12 pm

The New Dressmaker: Altering Yoke and Drawers

I confess, I haven’t really had time to read this chapter over. I wasn’t even aware that drawers required fitting other than the most basic does-this-go-around-me kind. Do they cover trouser fit for men and boys? Does yoke mean the yoke of a skirt, or any kind of yoke or something completely different? You’ll have to read to find out!

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Prezzies! (4)

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Thank you, Meadowsweet Child! I can’t wait to try some of these out. Except that everything I own is in a box right now, so I have to wait. Also, packing vintage sewing machines with the old cases totally beats packing modern, caseless machines, but moving them is still the pits. 🙂

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August 27, 2012 · 7:10 am

The New Dressmaker: Altering Waist Patterns

Once you’ve altered the length of your pattern, according to the New Dressmaker, the next step is to do fitting in a muslin.

Ah, terminology. As I mentioned last post, “Waist” means, as far as I can tell, “bodice.” The focus is on making the changes in the muslin. And, it appears that (quelle surprise!) women in the early 20th century had the same figure issues we’re always talking about today: large or small bust, square or sloped shoulders, straight or curved back… The only one they don’t much go into is waist. I guess the corsets were still taking care of that.

Voila!

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The New Dressmaker

A while back, my mother (antiquer and thriftarian par excellence) presented me with several vintage-to-antique sewing related books. I thought I’d try to feature a few things from (at least one of)  them while I’m In Transition from one city (and province) to another.

The New Dressmaker

Meet The New Dressmaker—Copyright 1921, but with illustrations that hint at their earlier origin.

I like several things about the New Dressmaker—for one thing, it’s very well-illustrated. I’ve read (or tried to read) several early-20th-century sewing books and between the terminology differences (“plait”=pleat, “waist”=bodice) and the lack of illustrations it can be fairly flummoxing. And while it doesn’t have much in the way of pattern-drafting information (it is, after all, produced by a pattern company), it has lots on sewing techniques, and everyone’s favourite—fitting. 😉 So I figured I’d share the various fitting chapters over the next few posts.

This first fitting chapter discusses making basic length adjustments to the pattern itself.

See what you think

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Prezzies! (3)

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K these ones were for me. 😉 Thanks, Quiet & Small Adventures!

Too bad I can’t use any of it until after the move… 😦

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August 22, 2012 · 9:05 am

Prezzies (2)

Simplicity 1149

More fun, although considerably more time-intensive than Style 2304, was Simplicity 1149. This is probably in the running for cutest little pattern ever. I was a little concerned about the width vs. length ratio, and obviously that kind of horizontal skirt poof isn’t going to happen without intense crinolining of a type I’m not keen to subject my nieces to, but I’m hopeful the sheer cuteness will make up for it.

Damn, this is cute.

Dress & Bolero

My older niece, Fyon (who is five), loves having dresses that match mine (well, loves it more than my kids do, anyway), so I thought I would use up the rest of my navy seersucker from the Cambie on a dress for her. I looked through my patterns for something close in style to the Cambie, but the closest I could find was actually the dress I made her last year, and I didn’t want to re-use a pattern where there are so many other crazy fun ones to try. So, Simplicity 1149. And I thought this navy cotton (cotton poly?) with the little white flowers would be the perfect complementary fabric. It originally came from my Grandmother’s stash, and Tyo had sorta earmarked it to make boxers out of, but hopefully she’s forgiven me for putting it to a more immediate use. I used it for the sash, the lining of the little jacket, and, most importantly, the ruffle ornament.

Ruffles!

There are two kinds of “ruffle” on this dress, both of which were pleated using the ruffler that came with my Pfaff, attached to my singer Featherweight. I have three ruffler feet now, but one only works with the army machine (which is put away and not really reliable) and the other works with the quick-snap foot on my modern machine, and has driven my absolutely fucking nuts in the past.*  I set it to pleat (gathering every five stitches, rather than with every stitch) although really there are plenty of places where it screwed that up. It looks fine, though—half the battle with ruffles is not to sweat the small stuff, in my opinion.

Anyway, for the skirt ruffle, I ripped on-grain strips, stitched them all together, and finished the edges with the rolled hemmer. For the edging, I pressed the strips in half lengthwise and basted down the open edge—I find if you don’t baste it closed, the ruffler tries to ruffle just the top layer and Bad Things Happen.

A very blurry attempt at a closeup. 😦 Showing edge-pleats and back buttons and bow.

Syo was eerily enthused when she came home after a quick mom-free vacation and discovered this little thing lying around the house. The first thing she had to do was try it on. (I’ll remind you that Syo just turned nine, while the pattern alleges itself to be a “size 5”.) It’s absolutely not the sort of thing she would be willing to wear in public—but some latent toddler in her just couldn’t resist trying it on to twirl around the house. It’s SNUG—she has to exhale a bit to get the waist button closed (These fifties pattern that assume that children have waists. Pfft.) But it’s still on her.

You cannot resist the Cute. You will be assimilated.

The skirt is obviously very short on my nine-year-old. Fortunately Fyon is a little narrower than Syo, and significantly shorter, so I’m thinking the fit should be great.

I finished the skirt hem with the last of my 2″ horsehair braid (actually, I was about 2″ short, and had to patch in a little section of hem with bits of 1″ horsehair braid. It is Not Pretty, but it’s all covered by fabric now and doesn’t seem to show. And combined with the double-tiered lining I added (made of stiff cotton-poly blend broadcloth) it really had a surprising amount of loft.

Bringing out the Inner Ballerina

We are so cute

Back view

Yes Yes We are.

Oh, wait. What. You’re still reading? Sorry, I kind of succumbed to The Cute there for a minute. Insidious stuff, that. Sorry for the grainy photos—this was the best light we could find in the five minutes we had before I went off to work that morning, and the camera did not like it.

Back, with buttons

Here, have a quick closeup of the back buttons (buttonholes made using my Greist buttonholer, ). I guess I shoulda taken a photo without the sash tied, too. /sigh.

but sooooo cute…

*possibly because there’s just too much vibration and movement on the light-weight, modern plastic machine, but anyway, I don’t trust it and didn’t feel like taking the time to experiment, when I have a perfectly good Pfaff ruffler foot anyway.

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Prezzies (1)

Tiny sundresses

I confess: I finished up my Last Sundress, and what did I do?

Turned around and made two more.

At least these ones aren’t for me—they’re for my little nieces. And they give me a chance to use some of the really insanely cute vintage kids’ patterns I’ve picked up, that my kids are just not going to go for.

Style 2304

Let’s start with Style 2304, which is intended for my younger niece. Is that not the epitome of 70s-kid-cute?

So I was a little worried about starting with a regular size 4 pattern; this is the Waif we’re talking about, who is four but probably still newborn in width. I decided, upon cutting it out, that it was way too wide, and shaved a couple of inches off by adding a pleat at CF and taking a bit off at the back. Because the yoke was now narrower, I narrowed the straps by a similar amount. So the look is a bit different—longer relative to its width, and more delicate—than I think I was really going for. And I didn’t want to shorten the length because I know my stylish sister-in-law doesn’t really like how short a lot of the vintage kids patterns are, but combined with the narrowed-ness and the ruffles, I kinda feel like it looks a bit more little-house-on-the-prairie than I had intended. Not quite my favourite look. I suppose I can always shorten it later if desired.

Buttons

I went with buttons in the back. I had three not-exactly-matching red buttons fished out from the random button stash, but when I went to stitch them on the plastic between the the holes of one was, ah, missing. Meaning the thread fell straight through. Not exactly a useful button to hold on to, button stasher. So now I’m a button short; I’ll have to go through and see what else I can come up with.

I must admit, I kind of broke my brain adding the piping and the little ruffle sleevelets on this one. In the end I resorted to finishing the inside of the armscye by hand.

I like that the amount of gathering under the yoke is really minimal (even with me lopping a couple of inches off the yoke and leaving the skirt piece the same.).

And I think that is about as much as I have to say about that dress. Under the fine old academic principle of the Minimum Publishable Unit, I’ll tell you about the even-cuter Simplicity 1149… next time!

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