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Girl Wonders

Another pair of capris

Well, I did no sewing yesterday, but I did manage to get another pair of capri jeans cut out. (I only had 1.1m of fabric, about .25m shy of what I need for a full-length pair, I guess, and I didn’t want to patchwork in pieces of my other denim. This does, however, mean that I will still need another pair of full-length jeans for Self-Stitched September, because the wearability of capris in Alberta in September is dubious. Also I did laundry. Mounds and mounds of little-girl laundry.

Poser in pink.

My daughters, on the other hand (aside from passing through the house like a high-pitched whirlwind), did a lot of sewing. In particular, my oldest spent several hours sewing the younger one into a variety of costumes. Ok, perhaps sewing is a bit of a misnomer. There was a bit of lacing

Pink poser, showing back lacing.

involved, but mostly scissors. A lot of scissors. A lot of scraps that started out yesterday reasonably sized are… no longer. But, it kept them occupied and focused the destruction on reasonable targets, right? It says everything you need to know about our personalities that I started sewing for my barbies, while my oldest daughter has started sewing for a person.

This used to be a Lydia...

The pink outfit is, as you may have guessed, made from the last few remnants of the pink poplin I made the twirly dress out of. The white is the most satisfying use of a wadder I can imagine. I had been meaning to try to salvage the bodice part of my Lydia Disaster, but really—watching it shredded by a 10-year-old deconstructionist is much more satisfying.

Also, the 10-year-old was wearing one of my RTW shirts all yesterday. It’s a bit loose on her whereas it’s snug on me, but still.

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Home

So we got home late last night, and now I’m lying here with a house full of 10 days’ worth of vacation junk (plus all the stuff the kids came home with… I send them out with two suitcases and they come back with two suitcases, three backpacks, and about 6 grocery bags full of stuff (plus one big garbage bag of clothes). WTF?? I think it is time for a wardrobe prune for the little girls.) and all I want to do is SEW. Fortunately for the state of my house, I don’t quite know what I want to sew, but my fingers are definitely itching. Probably another pair of jeans would be the best start. Though the Kasia skirt Seemane suggested sounds fun. I’m just not convinced I’m actually likely to wear a pencil skirt (or if one would even look good on me) and I’m still trying to build wearables for Self-Stitched September. On the other hand, I think the new plaid I picked up would make really nice contrast pockets (although maybe not with the striped denim… maybe the sparkly denim from the girls’ jean jackets would work for that?… oh, the angst of fabric selection!). On consideration, the grey herringbone wool is too heavy for anything but a coat. It’s really heavy. Heavier than the stuff I bought for my winter coat project. What kind of a coat can you make with about 1.5m of fashion fabric? (Probably why it was at Value Village in the first place, no?) . I’d love something like this,

I love this jacket! Unfortunateley, I have no pattern like it.

but I have a feeling it’s too heavy for the sleeves to drape nicely even if they were cut on the bias. And I have nothing like a pattern for it. A short-sleeved coat would be a possibility, but I don’t really like the look (also the pointlessness) of them. I like a cropped or bolero jacket with long sleeves much better (but back to the pattern issue). Apparently I’d rather have a cold tummy than cold arms.

On the Wearability Report, I lost a rivet off my black jeans. 😦 Although this bothers me less than if I’d lost the rivet on RTW, since I can just replace it, it’s still irritating. They’ve been washed about 4 times now (5 by the end of today) and are generally holding up pretty well, though the knees are (inevitably) fading. The hubby’s white voile shirt is holding up well to its numerous washings, as it gets a lot of wear. The fabric is so thin, though, that I imagine I’ll be making a new one sooner than I think. Several of the pretty pearl snaps have popped off the girls’ jean jackets, too (all in places where the fabric was really too thick for them, though, like the cuffs). I like the heavy-duty snaps much better, at least for jackets, and they’re easier to set, too.

In other news, I foresee lots of swayback alteration practice for any fitted clothing for my older daughter. That baby got back.

Wow, that was a lot of babbling for not a lot of sewing. Ok, off to clean my house!

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Finds

'vintage' patterns---3 for 99 cents

I did at last manage to drag my sister-in-law to Value Village this morning for a quick trawl. Apologies for the crummy camera-phone pictures, the real camera’s battery is dead at the moment.

Nothing stupendously amazing. A nice sundress pattern with similar detailing to a 30s

A cute sundress with some nice details

nightgown (wonder if I could cut it on the bias and omit the zipper?)

They have this technique where they stuff two ugly patterns in a baggie with one nicer one for 99 cents (the same price as the individual patterns, by the way). So I got this cute 70s empire-waist, princess seam dress and a couple of so-so kids patterns. I really liked the dress, though.

Here’s the kicker. Can you make out what it says in the red writing above the size? Maybe not, the pictures are spectacularly sucky. It says…

Maternity!  I just scored a 70s maternity pattern! (And my mom swears all 70s maternity wear was awful!). Oopsie. Since I have no intention of including any further procreation in my life plan, this is fairly amusing, but hopefully I can just reduce the amount of gathering at that bottom front panel and have a wearable, non-maternity dress. (For the record, I don’t think those girls on the pattern envelope look pregnant at all—or even old enough to be pregnant, for that matter!)

Wool plaid and herringbone, and a 70s maternity pattern!

I also grabbed a couple of smallish pieces of wooly fabric, a lightweight plaid with some pink in it and a heavy grey herringbone. There might just be enough of the plaid for a pencil skirt, or maybe an A-line jumper for one of the kids (assuming I can get them to wear anything scratchy like that!). The herringbone wants to be a jacket but I strongly doubt there’s enough of it there (plus grey is probably not the best colour near my face), but maybe a longer or flaring gored skirt. Something with some girly detail to offset the boring colour.

You will note that neither of these fabrics is even remotely suited to the patterns I picked up. /sigh.

So anyway, that’s the story. We’re off to the lake tonight so I will be incommunicado for a few days and probably have nothing to say for a few more after. What do you think should be the first thing I sew when I get back? I’m thinking the next set of jeans, but there’s also another whack at the Lydia T-shirt pattern, or a skirt. It would be fun to do a skirt. I’ve never done one.

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Why we sew

Now, why we sew has obviously been the subject of many, many posts. I know why I sew—to have something unique out of my own head. And with long enough sleeves (I still haven’t made a successful garment with long sleeves. Partly because it’s been warm, partly because I think I’ve trained myself away from long sleeves over the years).

But I was chatting with my mother about sewing the other day (I know, wasn’t this blog supposed to exist so I don’t yak her ear off about it?)… and she made a comment that she gave up sewing when she began having to alter the patterns right out of the envelope.

This took me aback a little.

Don’t most people sew expecting to alter their patterns? Isn’t most of the point of sewing for yourself so you CAN alter the pattern before making the garment? I mean, my mother is not particularly oddly-shaped, but she has the same gangling limbs I do, an even shorter waist, and a D-cup… of course she’s going to have to alter the pattern. And that’s without even talking about swaybacks, forward (or backward) shoulders, or any of those other subtler fitting dilemmas. And it’s not as if the ready-to-wear garments from the store have these alterations made to them!

But then I realized that in the era when my mother learnt to sew (the 1960s)… you still sewed for the sake of economy. Or tradition, or because that’s what girls did. And even when I was a child, my home-sewed garments were generally only the things you couldn’t get off the rack—those pioneer dresses I mentioned, for example. (Some of which have fabulous pintucks in the pinafores, by the way. Pintucks terrify me!) Many of her sewing projects were dolls—again, things not available off the rack. When it came to creative wardrobing, my mom far preferred to hunt the thrift stores and garage sales (even in the 80s!) or overstock places like Winners for bargains.

Which is fine, as far as it goes… it’s just a far different “world of sewing” than I am used to.

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A find!

Mail-order envelope, post-marked 1955. "Poncho, pedal-pushers, shorts, blouse"

Pattern drawing

Pattern drawing. My grandma labeled this pattern as containing "poncho, pedal pushers, shorts, blouse"

My mom let me paw through her small stash of old patterns today. Most of them are not really of interest to me—a lot of little girl (and adult) pioneer dresses and things like that. A number of them are Folkwear patterns, too—I hadn’t realized Folkwear was around that long ago (since at least one of those patterns is for a dress I wore when I was two).

But there was one children’s pattern she had gotten from my grandmother. It’s a mail-order pattern from “The Star Weekly Pattern Department”, post-marked 1955. My mother would have been 2 going on 3, her sister 11 months younger, perfect for this size 2 pattern. Of course, my children are far beyond a size 2, but I do have a couple of two-year-olds I’ve been sewing for, and I could always take a stab at grading it. That poncho is pretty cute.

My first un-printed pattern!

And look! Un-printed pattern paper!

I haven’t gone through to see if all pieces are there, but my grandmother and mother are both borderline hoarders, so I’m betting they are.

Sadly, she’s still hanging on to the button collection. Maybe she’ll let me take some pictures, though.

I am curious about one thing, though—whether size 2 patterns in the 50s were cut for diapers or not. It seems like there was a much bigger press to get your kids potty-trained back than as compared to now (infant potty-trainers aside). Mind you, if I was hand-washing all my kids’ dirty cloth diapers, I’d have had a lot more motivation to get them potty-trained early, too!

Pattern drawing and pieces

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Planning

The Lake... we may or may not make it this far this year.

So, the sewing is about to take a break as we head off for the yearly “vacation” back home. I love going home—it’s way more exciting to visit than it was when we lived there! And I miss my kids. Older daughter is turning 10 tomorrow; she sounds so grown up on the phone. House is almost clean, laundry’s mostly done, keys are with the housesitter. No empty house this year—we learned our lesson (and you don’t ever want to wake up at one in the morning while camping, with crappy cell coverage, to a dropped call trying to tell you your house an eight our drive away has just been robbed. Thank goodness for tenant insurance. Anyway).

So, the sewing is going to be a little light for a while, but I hope to hit up the thrift stores in my home town (which tend to be a little more exciting than my local Value Village) so hopefully I’ll trip over some cool fabric or patterns. And when I get back—it’s time to prep hardcore for Self Stitched September!

On that front, a little bit of planning.

I’ve done not too badly on the tops front, assuming any of them are still wearable by then (the cowl-necks out of that really thin knit are not holding up well). I still need:

  • at least one more pair of jeans (two if I get ambitious; I think I have enough fabric for two)
  • something warm. My hubby has been trying to get me into one of those convertible cardigans that are basically just a big rectangle with sleeves attached. Actually, he’s been trying to get me into anything that isn’t a slouchy hoodie. The storebought ones always have too-short sleeves, but obviously I can fix that if I’m making my own. There’s a tutorial out there but I’m too lazy right now to track it down and link it—sorry.
  • more tops. I still need a long-sleeved shirt or two or three or five. I foresee more experiments with the Lydia pattern. Will need to find more good knits for that.
  • And lastly (and maybe not something I’ll tackle in time for September)—in my efforts to make myself a winter coat, I’ve been neglecting something. You see, I’ve made it through the last five years or so without a real winter coat. I had a long, black wool, fall-weight coat that I just stuffed layers and layers underneath. Not ideal, but it worked, especially after moving here three years ago, as the winters are not exactly severe by Canadian standards. But, as of this spring that coat has been declared dead, so not only am I out a winter coat, I’m out my fall and spring coat, too. I do have a backup that works in a pinch, a gorgeous flowing tan jersey trench-type thing, but, in its stylishness, it HAS NO BUTTONS. I understand why. They’d totally wreck the flow of it. But it does limit its utillity a bit (which is, no doubt, why I found it for a song at the thrift store ten years ago, and why it’s remained in largely pristine condition while I’ve worn my way through any number of other long coats). So, once it gets too chilly for my jean jacket, there may well be a period of time where it’s not yet cold enough for my uber-winter-jacket (even assuming I have that finished in September, which is a big if). Obviously, I need to make a fall-weight coat. In my ideal world, this would be a Lady Grey Hudson’s Bay Blanket Coat.

Hudson's Bay Company Point Blankets

Perhaps a bit of backstory is in order. The Hudson’s Bay Company started out at a fur-trade company across the Canadian Northwest, however many hundreds of years ago now. They set up trading posts across much of Canada, trading the highly desirable furs trapped and hunted by First Nations people for a variety of European goods. Including the now-famous Hudson’s Bay point blankets, heavy pre-shrunk wool creations. The most famous are cream with four coloured stripes across one end, and of course the black points. My personal favourites are solid red, with a black stripe. These blankets were valued for many things, not the least of which was making coats; originally of course, only the blankets were sold/traded, and people made the coats themselves. More recently, as the HBC expanded into one of the largest department stores in Canada, they began to sell coats made from the blankets themselves. Fast forward to the late 1970s, when my parents were first married; my father bought my mother a Hudson’s Bay blanket coat (if you knew my parents, you would understand this says a lot about them). A full-length, black-and-red, wonderfully warm blanket coat. I imagine my mother wore it, although not overly much.

When I was 17 or 18, I discovered it. It was my first full-length coat, and the first time I ever felt like anything other than a blob during the winter months.

A crappy picture of a gorgeous coat

People on the street stopped me and told me I looked like a movie star. It was awesome. I wore it to death (I still feel bad for that), until the lining was ripped (I patched it), the armpits were pulled out, and the back was almost worn through from my backpacks. That’s it on the right—the only picture I seem to have of if (a terrible one of me, by the way, but the coat still holds its own, I think). You can, however, observe the too-short sleeves. Yes, even my favourite coat of all time had too-short sleeves.

Anyway, I would love to have another HBC blanket coat. And I would love to have a Lady Grey coat. So wouldn’t it be awesome to combine the two? (The bonus—the shorter Lady Grey coat presumably wouldn’t require quite as much fabric as a full length coat. Those blankets are EXPENSIVE!). The only worry I have is that the blanket might be a bit too heavy for the pattern; it’s heavier than a standard wool coating, that’s for sure.

I don’t know if this will happen in September, or even this fall. I still don’t even own the Lady Grey pattern (I am promising to reward myself with it when I finish two of my current three projects at work, but it’s not going well). I certainly don’t have a HBC blanket or two kicking around, and they are not cheap as material goes.

But man, it would be sweet, sweet, sweet.

Anyway, until  next post, au revoir!

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Setbacks

Frank-Halter-Top

I wish I had more progress to show you, especially as I’ll be disappearing for a bit in a few days. As usually happens when I venture into “my own design” (even when franken-patterning), progress is, shall we say, not so smooth. I was progressing at a good clip this morning (barring my usual haven’t-thought-things-through construction errors), got everything together except the buttonholes, and realized I need to re-adjust the position of the triangle tops and their gathering. The first iteration of this top, in the sundress, was a little

Showing: gathered triangle on left; shirred back on right.

too spread out and flat. This version, a little too concentrated and gathered. Not quite in my “just right” zone. Of course I didn’t discover this until I not only had both tops attached, but had bound the edges. Fortunately I didn’t trim (much) off, but that means I have about three times as many seams to pick out. And I still haven’t remembered to get a new seam-ripper, by the way.

My original length of shirring was too loose, so I shortened it by a couple of inches; now it’s very snug. This thing is going to need a lot of buttons. What do you think—boring black, or bright and vibrant? Might have to spend some time tonight digging through the button collection! 🙂

Hopefully I’ll make some more progress tonight. I’d really like to have this to wear on the vacay, and I am running out of evenings to work on it.

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Les croquis

I like to flatter myself that I can draw. Technically, I’m reasonably good. Creatively… perhaps less so. In high school, when I doodled all the time, people used to ask me if I wanted to design clothes when I grew up. I laughed. Fun as the idea sounded, I didn’t really doodle anything I thought anybody would really wear. The fashions I was drawing belonged to the worlds inside my head, which was where I chiefly lived at that point in my life.

Almost every time I make a pattern, about a dozen possible variations flash through my head. Normally,  these pass like lightning and I end up doing the pattern pretty much as is. When I’m at my best, I actually try to sketch  them out.

I’ll tell you something I’ve noticed over the years: the biggest difference between the doodles of “artists” and the doodles of “non-artists”?

The “artists” don’t apologize for how crappy their doodles are. 😉

I should probably give in and make myself a proper croquis one of these days. I can draw out a decent human figure if I try (of course, it was better when I was less abysmally out of practice) but it takes effort that would be better spent getting those folds of drapery right. I love drawing fabric. Actually, I love drawing clothes. I really do (see above comments about high-school).

So the top picture is the current variation I’m working on. The bottom (which is going to be straight across, not that nice downward dip… maybe next time) is my adapted/butchered version of the Anna top. The top is the same pieces from the sundress. The back I am planning to do as smocking, so I can cheat bypass some of the fitting issues I had with the Anna. It’s cut out but I’ll have to wait until tomorrow to sew it. I guess if the back’s elastic, I don’t really need the buttons in the front, do I?… oh well, we’ll see. The placket’s already cut out and ironed.

The bottom picture is some other (simpler) variations I’d like to try. See what I mean about crappy doodles?

Anyway, I know you came here to see sewing—sorry, I have none to show just yet, so I gave you (half-ass) drawing instead.

Sewing tomorrow, I promise.

PS: another thing I’ve noticed about “artists” is that most people’s drawings of people tend to look something like the original person themself. Probably because we all spend more time looking in mirrors over the years than we ever do at models. Normally this kinda sucks, but when you’re sketching fashions for yourself, it’s actually an advantage!

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I hate fashion.

Or at least, I hate it when it dictates to people what they must wear contrary to their personal inclination.

The only relevant questions should be: does it fit? is it fun? is it flattering?

Not necessarily in that order.

In everyday life this doesn’t creep up on me too often (except last winter when I was looking for a good pair of jeans that didn’t come with holes in already… hence my Jalie Jeans pattern purchase), but it really pisses me off when I encounter it in the sewing world. We come to sewing (or I do) so we can have the garments we want, as we want them, when we want them. So that we’re not limited by the imagination and pocketbooks of designers and manufacturers who have absolutely no clue about our lives and personalities. Sewing makes us free to choose: our colour, our hemline, our silhouette, our style. When I hear fellow sewists who I admire so much worrying that their hemline is too long(short, wide, narrow), or that a garment is (twitch) “dated”?

I start seeing red. I feel as pissed off as I did in gr. 4 when our socks “had to be” folded at the ankle and our pants had to be cuffed, but the cuffs could not be more than 2″ wide. As pissed off as I was when I gave in and bought my first pair of bell-bottoms. As… grr.

Make what you want.

Wear what you want.

Rock it.

The rest of ’em can go shove it.

/end rant. Whew. Sorry about that, folks. Please return to your regularly scheduled sewing.

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My first vintage crush

OMG gorgeous fifties dress

I’ve talked before about how vintage styles mostly don’t really do it for me. Either I don’t have the right figure (40s and 50s) or I don’t like the style (20s and 60s. For that matter, 70s and 80s, too. Yes, I know I just cut out a VERY 70s sundress. I am attempting to pass beyond my prejudices). However, some of my favourite blogs are by vintage fashionistas (Gertie’s being the biggest, of course), so I kind of get pulled along for the ride. And I like a lot of what I see, even if I can’t picture myself actually wearing much of it.

But, the other day I stumbled from Gertie’s blog onto the Blue Gardenia, and there I found… this gorgeous thing.

This is officially my first Vintage Crush.

Look at that waist line (down-up-down)! Look at that back detail! Look at that interesting front seaming. Look at that…

Price tag. Ulp.

Folks, I am never going to own this pattern. Even if it were in my size (it’s a 40″ bust… I’m a 33″. I could probably make it for my husband, but I don’t think he’d appreciate it…) it’s listed at $125. Yowza. I haven’t managed to justify spending $20 on a Colette pattern yet (and believe me, I slaver over Ceylon and the Lady Grey almost daily).

But oh, do I want to knock it off.  I can’t even begin to imagine how except perhaps by draping, and I haven’t got a dress form (much less one fitted to my particular body). While I read a lot about pattern-drafting and like to think I could theoretically do it, in practice, I rarely have. Never for something complex.)

It even makes me love the French darts, and I hate French darts. Also, for the record, I’ve yet to sew myself a real skirt, much less a real dress, much less a crazy fancy fitted dress with complex seaming like this.

Alright, I’m going to whimper to myself for a bit now. We spent most of the day gallivanting (it’s one of the first truly nice weekends we’ve had yet this year) and now I have to clean the house (which is a catastrophe due to my past few days’ intensive sewing) and all that responsible stuff, to likely no sewing today. Poop.

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