Category Archives: Sewing

Finds

'vintage' patterns---3 for 99 cents

I did at last manage to drag my sister-in-law to Value Village this morning for a quick trawl. Apologies for the crummy camera-phone pictures, the real camera’s battery is dead at the moment.

Nothing stupendously amazing. A nice sundress pattern with similar detailing to a 30s

A cute sundress with some nice details

nightgown (wonder if I could cut it on the bias and omit the zipper?)

They have this technique where they stuff two ugly patterns in a baggie with one nicer one for 99 cents (the same price as the individual patterns, by the way). So I got this cute 70s empire-waist, princess seam dress and a couple of so-so kids patterns. I really liked the dress, though.

Here’s the kicker. Can you make out what it says in the red writing above the size? Maybe not, the pictures are spectacularly sucky. It says…

Maternity!  I just scored a 70s maternity pattern! (And my mom swears all 70s maternity wear was awful!). Oopsie. Since I have no intention of including any further procreation in my life plan, this is fairly amusing, but hopefully I can just reduce the amount of gathering at that bottom front panel and have a wearable, non-maternity dress. (For the record, I don’t think those girls on the pattern envelope look pregnant at all—or even old enough to be pregnant, for that matter!)

Wool plaid and herringbone, and a 70s maternity pattern!

I also grabbed a couple of smallish pieces of wooly fabric, a lightweight plaid with some pink in it and a heavy grey herringbone. There might just be enough of the plaid for a pencil skirt, or maybe an A-line jumper for one of the kids (assuming I can get them to wear anything scratchy like that!). The herringbone wants to be a jacket but I strongly doubt there’s enough of it there (plus grey is probably not the best colour near my face), but maybe a longer or flaring gored skirt. Something with some girly detail to offset the boring colour.

You will note that neither of these fabrics is even remotely suited to the patterns I picked up. /sigh.

So anyway, that’s the story. We’re off to the lake tonight so I will be incommunicado for a few days and probably have nothing to say for a few more after. What do you think should be the first thing I sew when I get back? I’m thinking the next set of jeans, but there’s also another whack at the Lydia T-shirt pattern, or a skirt. It would be fun to do a skirt. I’ve never done one.

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The Wearability Report

In other news, since I’m not sewing, I’ll give you a quick “wearability report,” since I have been wearing a lot of my self-stitched clothes. Unfortunately since I’m the only one who ever seems to take pictures, I don’t have photos of my stuff “in action”. The 70s Sundress has gotten the most attention, partly because it’s a showy piece, and (or but) partly because it’s the most “home-sewn” looking of my recent creations. It’s also gotten at least 3 “make me one” requests from relatives… including my cousin who then flatly refused to give me her measurements (since I would have to alter the pattern… she’s a wee bit bustier than I). Seriously… if you can’t deal with the idea of your own measurements, sweetie, don’t even ask about someone sewing you something. The best was a woman on the street at the street festival that’s going on right now (I love our summer vacation home, by the way):

“Where did you get your dress?” she asks. “I love it!”

“Actually, I made it,” I confess.

“Oh!” she says, “Do you sell them?”

I had to say no; she looked very disappointed.

The kids love their jean jackets, although one of the smaller snaps has already come off of one; the older niece, as you can see here, loves her twirly dress (the younger is still pretty much happy to wear whatever, and get it gloriously dirty).

I tried out the black halter top yesterday. I was not really comfortable about the length, but it was a hot, summery, short-shorts day. It garnered instant approval from the kids and hubby, and more day-long complements from the other people we were hanging out with, so I guess it’s a win after all, in all its skanktastic glory. I now have a fabulously even and dark upper-back tan, although my legs are still pretty pasty.

I took the black jeans in one last time (!) and so far they’re wearing deliciously (and not garnering any comments about me making them for someone because everyone assumes they’re RTW). I’ve been wearing the blue tank top a ton (although largely as jammies since I forgot to pack a jammie shirt.) It too flies under the radar. The fabric is going to pill pretty badly, however (which I had heard said of rayon jerseys), but ah well.

You know, I think I’ve almost managed to start my Self-Stitched September early… I’ve been trying to wear at least one self-stitched item each day, because I feel more excited about getting dressed when I do. I actually feel disappointed if I have to wear all RTW. I’d love to step it up to a full Self-Stitched commitment (instead of my current lite, one-self-stitched-piece-a-day level), but I don’t think I have the numbers of pieces, especially since a lot of my summery stuff will be non-useful (especially for work). With any luck there’ll be Do It Yourself December or something.

On that note, I’ll sign off. Maybe I’ll have some thrift store finds to show off later! 🙂

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Why we sew

Now, why we sew has obviously been the subject of many, many posts. I know why I sew—to have something unique out of my own head. And with long enough sleeves (I still haven’t made a successful garment with long sleeves. Partly because it’s been warm, partly because I think I’ve trained myself away from long sleeves over the years).

But I was chatting with my mother about sewing the other day (I know, wasn’t this blog supposed to exist so I don’t yak her ear off about it?)… and she made a comment that she gave up sewing when she began having to alter the patterns right out of the envelope.

This took me aback a little.

Don’t most people sew expecting to alter their patterns? Isn’t most of the point of sewing for yourself so you CAN alter the pattern before making the garment? I mean, my mother is not particularly oddly-shaped, but she has the same gangling limbs I do, an even shorter waist, and a D-cup… of course she’s going to have to alter the pattern. And that’s without even talking about swaybacks, forward (or backward) shoulders, or any of those other subtler fitting dilemmas. And it’s not as if the ready-to-wear garments from the store have these alterations made to them!

But then I realized that in the era when my mother learnt to sew (the 1960s)… you still sewed for the sake of economy. Or tradition, or because that’s what girls did. And even when I was a child, my home-sewed garments were generally only the things you couldn’t get off the rack—those pioneer dresses I mentioned, for example. (Some of which have fabulous pintucks in the pinafores, by the way. Pintucks terrify me!) Many of her sewing projects were dolls—again, things not available off the rack. When it came to creative wardrobing, my mom far preferred to hunt the thrift stores and garage sales (even in the 80s!) or overstock places like Winners for bargains.

Which is fine, as far as it goes… it’s just a far different “world of sewing” than I am used to.

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A find!

Mail-order envelope, post-marked 1955. "Poncho, pedal-pushers, shorts, blouse"

Pattern drawing

Pattern drawing. My grandma labeled this pattern as containing "poncho, pedal pushers, shorts, blouse"

My mom let me paw through her small stash of old patterns today. Most of them are not really of interest to me—a lot of little girl (and adult) pioneer dresses and things like that. A number of them are Folkwear patterns, too—I hadn’t realized Folkwear was around that long ago (since at least one of those patterns is for a dress I wore when I was two).

But there was one children’s pattern she had gotten from my grandmother. It’s a mail-order pattern from “The Star Weekly Pattern Department”, post-marked 1955. My mother would have been 2 going on 3, her sister 11 months younger, perfect for this size 2 pattern. Of course, my children are far beyond a size 2, but I do have a couple of two-year-olds I’ve been sewing for, and I could always take a stab at grading it. That poncho is pretty cute.

My first un-printed pattern!

And look! Un-printed pattern paper!

I haven’t gone through to see if all pieces are there, but my grandmother and mother are both borderline hoarders, so I’m betting they are.

Sadly, she’s still hanging on to the button collection. Maybe she’ll let me take some pictures, though.

I am curious about one thing, though—whether size 2 patterns in the 50s were cut for diapers or not. It seems like there was a much bigger press to get your kids potty-trained back than as compared to now (infant potty-trainers aside). Mind you, if I was hand-washing all my kids’ dirty cloth diapers, I’d have had a lot more motivation to get them potty-trained early, too!

Pattern drawing and pieces

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In action!

I finally got some pictures of these kids IN the stuff I made them (well, some of them). (And wow… everyone really does say you should make them stuff. So far I tell everyone I’ll make them something if they come up to visit for the duration. That shuts ’em up)

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Planning

The Lake... we may or may not make it this far this year.

So, the sewing is about to take a break as we head off for the yearly “vacation” back home. I love going home—it’s way more exciting to visit than it was when we lived there! And I miss my kids. Older daughter is turning 10 tomorrow; she sounds so grown up on the phone. House is almost clean, laundry’s mostly done, keys are with the housesitter. No empty house this year—we learned our lesson (and you don’t ever want to wake up at one in the morning while camping, with crappy cell coverage, to a dropped call trying to tell you your house an eight our drive away has just been robbed. Thank goodness for tenant insurance. Anyway).

So, the sewing is going to be a little light for a while, but I hope to hit up the thrift stores in my home town (which tend to be a little more exciting than my local Value Village) so hopefully I’ll trip over some cool fabric or patterns. And when I get back—it’s time to prep hardcore for Self Stitched September!

On that front, a little bit of planning.

I’ve done not too badly on the tops front, assuming any of them are still wearable by then (the cowl-necks out of that really thin knit are not holding up well). I still need:

  • at least one more pair of jeans (two if I get ambitious; I think I have enough fabric for two)
  • something warm. My hubby has been trying to get me into one of those convertible cardigans that are basically just a big rectangle with sleeves attached. Actually, he’s been trying to get me into anything that isn’t a slouchy hoodie. The storebought ones always have too-short sleeves, but obviously I can fix that if I’m making my own. There’s a tutorial out there but I’m too lazy right now to track it down and link it—sorry.
  • more tops. I still need a long-sleeved shirt or two or three or five. I foresee more experiments with the Lydia pattern. Will need to find more good knits for that.
  • And lastly (and maybe not something I’ll tackle in time for September)—in my efforts to make myself a winter coat, I’ve been neglecting something. You see, I’ve made it through the last five years or so without a real winter coat. I had a long, black wool, fall-weight coat that I just stuffed layers and layers underneath. Not ideal, but it worked, especially after moving here three years ago, as the winters are not exactly severe by Canadian standards. But, as of this spring that coat has been declared dead, so not only am I out a winter coat, I’m out my fall and spring coat, too. I do have a backup that works in a pinch, a gorgeous flowing tan jersey trench-type thing, but, in its stylishness, it HAS NO BUTTONS. I understand why. They’d totally wreck the flow of it. But it does limit its utillity a bit (which is, no doubt, why I found it for a song at the thrift store ten years ago, and why it’s remained in largely pristine condition while I’ve worn my way through any number of other long coats). So, once it gets too chilly for my jean jacket, there may well be a period of time where it’s not yet cold enough for my uber-winter-jacket (even assuming I have that finished in September, which is a big if). Obviously, I need to make a fall-weight coat. In my ideal world, this would be a Lady Grey Hudson’s Bay Blanket Coat.

Hudson's Bay Company Point Blankets

Perhaps a bit of backstory is in order. The Hudson’s Bay Company started out at a fur-trade company across the Canadian Northwest, however many hundreds of years ago now. They set up trading posts across much of Canada, trading the highly desirable furs trapped and hunted by First Nations people for a variety of European goods. Including the now-famous Hudson’s Bay point blankets, heavy pre-shrunk wool creations. The most famous are cream with four coloured stripes across one end, and of course the black points. My personal favourites are solid red, with a black stripe. These blankets were valued for many things, not the least of which was making coats; originally of course, only the blankets were sold/traded, and people made the coats themselves. More recently, as the HBC expanded into one of the largest department stores in Canada, they began to sell coats made from the blankets themselves. Fast forward to the late 1970s, when my parents were first married; my father bought my mother a Hudson’s Bay blanket coat (if you knew my parents, you would understand this says a lot about them). A full-length, black-and-red, wonderfully warm blanket coat. I imagine my mother wore it, although not overly much.

When I was 17 or 18, I discovered it. It was my first full-length coat, and the first time I ever felt like anything other than a blob during the winter months.

A crappy picture of a gorgeous coat

People on the street stopped me and told me I looked like a movie star. It was awesome. I wore it to death (I still feel bad for that), until the lining was ripped (I patched it), the armpits were pulled out, and the back was almost worn through from my backpacks. That’s it on the right—the only picture I seem to have of if (a terrible one of me, by the way, but the coat still holds its own, I think). You can, however, observe the too-short sleeves. Yes, even my favourite coat of all time had too-short sleeves.

Anyway, I would love to have another HBC blanket coat. And I would love to have a Lady Grey coat. So wouldn’t it be awesome to combine the two? (The bonus—the shorter Lady Grey coat presumably wouldn’t require quite as much fabric as a full length coat. Those blankets are EXPENSIVE!). The only worry I have is that the blanket might be a bit too heavy for the pattern; it’s heavier than a standard wool coating, that’s for sure.

I don’t know if this will happen in September, or even this fall. I still don’t even own the Lady Grey pattern (I am promising to reward myself with it when I finish two of my current three projects at work, but it’s not going well). I certainly don’t have a HBC blanket or two kicking around, and they are not cheap as material goes.

But man, it would be sweet, sweet, sweet.

Anyway, until  next post, au revoir!

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Almost.

The front, finished. Still uneven.

Believe it or not, it is actually a different picture than the one I posted this morning. I unpicked the one hem, re-measured it against the other side, re-sewed, put the last three buttons on, and…

Still crooked.

I suspect some of my buttons are spread a little too far apart.

I suspect I will fix this at some point in the future, when it really starts to bug me.

For now… middling success. I trimmed a little too much off the back shirred panel, so it’s a bit snug. I’d like it longer, particularly in the front; that couple of inches of flesh at the bottom of my shirts is something I’m trying to avoid these days. The belly survived two pregnancies with remarkable resilience, but I find that as thirty creeps up some of that damage is reappearing (or maybe it’s just age and my tendency to put any and all weight

Back looks pretty good.

right on my middle).

On the upside, I think the back looks really good. I actually appear to have a waist! (Still no hips, though.) I am always kinda torn about halter tops; sometimes I think they’re good for showcasing (my) broad shoulders, other times I feel like they just make me look like a linebacker.

How about this: use the pattern for the bodice of a full-skirted sundress? Mmm, I like. Of course, by the time I get it made, we’ll be mostly out of summer here…

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Summery black shirt—another whine.

Black halter top... so close!

Aaargh!

Well, I was progressing along nicely. Shirring the back took forever (and used up all my black elastic thread). It’s kinda boring, really. Thank goodness for podcasts. And it took three or four different attempts to get the triangle tops put on with the gathers distributed nicely; they’re still not perfect but I think they’ll do. And then I hemmed it and measured the front and put in the buttonholes (why does it always mess up on the very last buttonhole? why?) and started merrily sewing on the buttons and…

My fronts aren’t even.

There is a significant gap where the buttonhole side is longer than the button side.

Back looks pretty good.

WTF? The pattern pieces were identical, I promise you. Were the top parts sewn asymmetrically? Possibly, but not by the inch-inch and a half that they’re off.

No, the culprit in this case is my eyeballed hemming. For some reason when I was ironing the hems I couldn’t find the little hem measurer that I keep downstairs with the iron, so I eyeballed it.

My bad, apparently.

Not un-fixable, but yet another seam to rip out. Maybe I’ll remember to pick up a seam ripper today.

/sigh

Like my buttons? Unlike my uneven hems?

But the shirt as a whole is looking pretty good, if a little scanty in the bottom-half coverage. I’ll have to think about drafting that downward dip in the front that was there in my original drawing.

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Setbacks

Frank-Halter-Top

I wish I had more progress to show you, especially as I’ll be disappearing for a bit in a few days. As usually happens when I venture into “my own design” (even when franken-patterning), progress is, shall we say, not so smooth. I was progressing at a good clip this morning (barring my usual haven’t-thought-things-through construction errors), got everything together except the buttonholes, and realized I need to re-adjust the position of the triangle tops and their gathering. The first iteration of this top, in the sundress, was a little

Showing: gathered triangle on left; shirred back on right.

too spread out and flat. This version, a little too concentrated and gathered. Not quite in my “just right” zone. Of course I didn’t discover this until I not only had both tops attached, but had bound the edges. Fortunately I didn’t trim (much) off, but that means I have about three times as many seams to pick out. And I still haven’t remembered to get a new seam-ripper, by the way.

My original length of shirring was too loose, so I shortened it by a couple of inches; now it’s very snug. This thing is going to need a lot of buttons. What do you think—boring black, or bright and vibrant? Might have to spend some time tonight digging through the button collection! 🙂

Hopefully I’ll make some more progress tonight. I’d really like to have this to wear on the vacay, and I am running out of evenings to work on it.

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Les croquis

I like to flatter myself that I can draw. Technically, I’m reasonably good. Creatively… perhaps less so. In high school, when I doodled all the time, people used to ask me if I wanted to design clothes when I grew up. I laughed. Fun as the idea sounded, I didn’t really doodle anything I thought anybody would really wear. The fashions I was drawing belonged to the worlds inside my head, which was where I chiefly lived at that point in my life.

Almost every time I make a pattern, about a dozen possible variations flash through my head. Normally,  these pass like lightning and I end up doing the pattern pretty much as is. When I’m at my best, I actually try to sketch  them out.

I’ll tell you something I’ve noticed over the years: the biggest difference between the doodles of “artists” and the doodles of “non-artists”?

The “artists” don’t apologize for how crappy their doodles are. 😉

I should probably give in and make myself a proper croquis one of these days. I can draw out a decent human figure if I try (of course, it was better when I was less abysmally out of practice) but it takes effort that would be better spent getting those folds of drapery right. I love drawing fabric. Actually, I love drawing clothes. I really do (see above comments about high-school).

So the top picture is the current variation I’m working on. The bottom (which is going to be straight across, not that nice downward dip… maybe next time) is my adapted/butchered version of the Anna top. The top is the same pieces from the sundress. The back I am planning to do as smocking, so I can cheat bypass some of the fitting issues I had with the Anna. It’s cut out but I’ll have to wait until tomorrow to sew it. I guess if the back’s elastic, I don’t really need the buttons in the front, do I?… oh well, we’ll see. The placket’s already cut out and ironed.

The bottom picture is some other (simpler) variations I’d like to try. See what I mean about crappy doodles?

Anyway, I know you came here to see sewing—sorry, I have none to show just yet, so I gave you (half-ass) drawing instead.

Sewing tomorrow, I promise.

PS: another thing I’ve noticed about “artists” is that most people’s drawings of people tend to look something like the original person themself. Probably because we all spend more time looking in mirrors over the years than we ever do at models. Normally this kinda sucks, but when you’re sketching fashions for yourself, it’s actually an advantage!

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