Class Samples: Dress Shirt

A very eager student asked about a class using this pattern. Curious, I was happy enough to oblige.

The Dress Shirt is a simple, pared-down take on a shirtdress, and I actually really enjoyed the sewing process, particularly the front bib and how the neckline was finished. Things went a bit awry at the sleeves—my first inclination was to set them in flat, shirt-style, but there’s way too much ease in the sleeve cap for this method—lots of gathers that are difficult to control. So I did the second sleeve in the round, but still didn’t do a great job on the easing. Next time I would pare down the sleeve cap a wee bit.

On the other hand, the pockets I added worked out fine.

The back view is surprisingly attractive in this picture, at least (these are terrible photos but I had about three minutes to take them in, so it is what it is.)

However, my biggest issue, far and away, is the fit in the shoulders. I did the same size (10) as for the Trapeze Dress last fall, which is technically a size down from my current measurements but a) there’s plenty of ease and b) I don’t think my shoulders have actually changed very much. Plus looking at the model, the pattern seemed to have slightly dropped shoulders, not really what I wanted. But, as it turns out, the shoulder fit has the same restricted movement and tightness across the back as I had in the Trapeze—plus a WAY low armscye.

I did only two of my usual adjustments–when sewing up these class samples I try to stay fairly close to the pattern. I squared the shoulders slightly, and I raised the underarm about 1cm. I did the same on the Trapeze Dress, and I don’t think the underarm height there was a problem. But obviously a bit of a broad-back adjustment is probably in order.

Dress lifts up at least 2-3” when I raise my arms. However, I do like the shorter hen length.

But on this dress, the armscye appears to be dropped by over an inch. I could easily lift it up an inch to an inch and a half before I’m happy with where it falls. For that matter, if I can get the sleeves sewn in a way that’s comfy for me, I’ll probably take 2-3″ off the hem, too. But that’s more personal preference.

There’s not much more to say as it’s a simple make. I really did enjoy the physical sewing of it. I don’t know if it’s the most flattering thing I’ve ever made (better photos might change my mind there), but it was a fun process!

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6 Comments

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6 responses to “Class Samples: Dress Shirt

  1. And here you are doing your duty too!! Sewing things for adult type obligations. Have we grown up?

    That color is bananas on you. I agree… shorter would be you ❤️

    • At least it was a nice fabric to work with! I feel distressingly grown up these days (something about having a child that’s officially an adult. 😂), though that’s not the same as competent. 😉 It is a great color!

  2. Very cute. I love the color of the fabric. What is fabric is it?

  3. I’m so behind on blog reading, but I just wanted to sympathize with your woes on woven sleeves/armscyes. I’ve been struggling with this lately too–I fought it with a lekala I just recently finished, but I’m giving it another go. I do wonder though if it’s more perception than anything, I don’t know about you, but I’ve personally been wearing either straight sleeveless or knit shirts for so long that I’m wondering if that’s half my problem. Unrealistic expectations or something, KWIM?

    • Well, I have some woven tops (with sleeves even) that I like how they fit, so I don’t think it’s ALL in my head. I do think I should be able to put my hands on my hips without the whole garment shifting upwards. 😂 What I SHOULD be doing is comparing those old patterns that fit to these new ones! (It’s also possible my shoulders are getting a little bit more forward as the years go by?…. 😭 I do get you on the comfy knit issue though!

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