The deets—Red Rayon Blouse

After years of ogling, I finally pulled the trigger on Butterick B6217, an adorable Patterns by Gertie blouse. I don’t really do blouses much, despite the odd flirtation. I actually think the last blouse I made was a Burdastyle JJ way back in the mists of time.

The fabric is a rayon twill, and while it is just as soft and fiddly as any rayon, it’s really quite glorious. I love the slightly heavier drape of it.

I was really unsure about the size. The pattern is described as “loose fitting”—not at all what the desired look is, IMO—and the amount of ease is correspondingly huge. On the other hand, I’m a bit bigger than I used to be which is requiring some reassessment about what measurements I should actually look for. But I found a post from someone on Instagram who said their measurements put them in a 14 and they made an 8.

I was a little leery looking at the finished measurements of the 8, so I decided to trace the pattern and muslin, which I almost never do with shop projects. The last time I tried to use an 8 because a pattern was oversized was a total disaster. In the 8 I wasn’t sure I would need my usual length changes, so I made only two alterations: curving in the back seam and squaring the shoulders slightly.

The results weren’t terrible and I probably will finish off that shirt, but it did seem just a little snug all around. So I went back to the size 10. I felt a lot more at home there, and took about 1/2″ of length out at the waist. I kinda wish I’d added it back on at the hem—the overall length is a wee bit short unless you’re tucking it in or wearing it over something high-waisted.

Anyway. The result was pretty good size-wise, I think. Just a tiny bit of taking in here and there. Keep in mind that’s going down two full sizes, given my measurements these days. The back does seem to hang up a bit, so maybe a bit of tweaking there is in order. On the other hand, I don’t have to look at it.

I used a featherweight knit interfacing for the facings, which was a great idea except that then I went and stabilized the main fabric of the neckline with a heavier knit interfacing for absolutely zero stretch, while the facing had a small amount of stretch, which is a recipe for gaping facing. Not bad, but not perfect.

The buttonholes, on the other hand, are perfect. I made them on my modern machine, which does pretty decent buttonholes on fabric like this, and a bit of wash-away stabilizer behind the fabric for insurance and everything was peachy keen.

I do like the pattern a lot—it’s adorable. The bias cut front ties are as much fun as they look. I dealt with the tulip sleeves by the simple method of lining up the underarm seam and sewing up from there, although I did make a bit of effort to make sure the crossover top lined up on both sides. There’s a marking you’re supposed to match but of course I forgot to mark it.

Whether it’ll become a wardrobe staple is another question, but I’m glad I gave it a try. I’d kinda like to make one with a matching skirt, for a summery-dress effect. We’ll see where I land when it stops being -30C for more than a few days.



Filed under Sewing

5 responses to “The deets—Red Rayon Blouse

  1. Dawn F.

    That outfit looks really good. I’m happy that you gave the blouse a try – it’s flirty! I would like to make one now!

  2. Gorgeous blouse! Love the fit and the neckline! And the fabric works really well with the black shiny pants. A bit of bling jewellery and you are set for a night on the town!
    I can see that blouse with a matching skirt in a summery fabric for a riff on your “summer-sundress” look!

  3. PsychicSewerKathleen

    I love this blouse! It has all the right ingredients – flirty without being too exposed 🙂 those ties across the bust are adorable but I think you also picked just the perfect fabric to make it with. Gorgeous. I love your idea of making a skirt to match or even longish shorts – such a cute summer outfit.

  4. It is very handsome.
    Thanks for the heads up on the sizing. I’ve been messing around with vintage blouse patterns of this nature, and They Fit. You really can’t have too much ease or the world is looking right into your bra through your armscye.
    From the back.
    It will be summer again.

  5. It has been a miserable winter here, so I’m able to relate. And it didn’t get dark until after 6:30 yesterday, so spring is coming!

    I LOVE this. 😘 The color is perfect, it goes really well with the pants (or are these jeans? I can’t remember now) and I know exactly what you mean when you say that your numbers are-a-changin’. Ack. Mine too. I gave up pop for Lent and am cutting back on carbs in hopes that will help…🤞 Pop was this tired momma’s sole source of caffeine, so it had better be worth it, ha!

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