Next Size Up II

Jeans. She has them.

Tyo’s replacement capris are finished. Or is that Bermudas? My shorts terminology is lacking. Can I blame being Canadian? The Patrones magazine calls them “pirata,” which I think is totally awesome.

They are pretty standard jeans-styled capris, with a few additional details.

Rear view

Funky, asymmetrical pockets are part of the original pattern (I left off the flaps this time. Not even for lack of fabric—I made them, but didn’t put them on. I don’t really like their shape.) I should’ve piped the pocket edges, although getting the piping crisp around all those corners would not have been fun. As it is, you can barely see the pockets are there. Hmm. I do like the piped yoke—I should’ve piped the waistband, too.

I had better not dwell on the missed piping opportunities. That way lies madness. I added one of those weird, pointless straps between back pocket and side-seam, at Tyo’s request.

I’m too cool.

And then managed to photograph her only from the other side.


Damn she is cool.

I love who I am.

Oh, wait, I’m supposed to be discussing construction, not just posting pictures of my cool kid.

Inside front—pockets, fly construction, buttonhole elastic, bound-edge waistband.

My fly interiors are not generally things of great beauty, and this one isn’t, either, although it’s one of my better ones. I won’t get into how many needles I broke as soon as I started trying to do zig-zags—bar tacks, buttonholes, attaching the belt loops. There was much howling and unpcking. I HATE unpicking bar-tacks. It got better when I ran out of topstitching thread and just used regular blue thread. I may do that for all bar tacks/dense zig-zags in the future. The buttonhole elastics emerge from gaps in the seams where I had to piece the waistband.


I added buttonholes on the outside before stitching the hems, to run the drawstrings (aka shoelaces) through. Back when I made the first pair of camo capris, I bought a metre or so of narrow black twill-tape for the drawstrings. I couldn’t find it when I finished that project, so wound up using shoe-laces instead. It’s kicked around on and off since then, (notably being used in this project) but again today I couldn’t find it. I did, however, find more shoelaces. (And I can never, ever find shoelaces when my shoes need them…)

Front closeup

Can you see that I screwed up the cutting played with the grain on the front pockets? No? Maybe just as well.

Pattern alterations.

Remember my pattern alterations?

Back view

Ok, here’s how they wound up looking. (If you can see through the print, which you probably can’t.) Rear rise is good—not any too high, could probably have gone a little higher, but coverage is maintained even when she squats down. Yay! Yoke curve-in is good but could’ve been more extreme—there’s still plenty of extra ease at the waistband that isn’t there at the hips. There is still some slight wedgification happening—not enough to be uncomfortable (yet) but I can tell that the crotch curve is not perfect for her. Presumably scooping is in order? I’m really not sufficiently enamoured of this pattern to bother, but Tyo may be, in which case I’ll keep it in mind if we end up at Pair #3.


Ok, I’m done. And apologies to Claire for not doing a full-camo photo shoot with the vest. We snapped these pictures in about five minutes just before bedtime.



Filed under Sewing

26 responses to “Next Size Up II

  1. isidore

    Weird, pointless strap? Lol, I think that’s for carrying your hammer. Tyo is a carpenter by trade, right?

  2. She looks very cool indeed. Great trousers! Err.. capris. Or piratas. Whatever. She looks great in them. Good job.

  3. PendleStitches

    These are cute. She is VERY cool. And I love the term piratas. Haven’t come across that one before but its very appropriate.

  4. What a great looking pair of capris. I love camo done in blues…or pinks… or oranges…Hmmm…I think I just love camo. Tyo looks very pleased!

  5. I can’t believe you got those out of a half metre of fabric. They turned out great!

  6. So cute! Here we’d call them capris. If they’re right above the knee, they’re bermudas or trouser shorts. If they’re longer than capris and almost reach the ankle but not quite, then we’d call them clam-diggers (I’ve also heard pedal-pushers). And if they’re pants that are not long enough because it looks like the person has outgrown them, they’re called high-waters (but that term is negative). Pants with the hammer loop are called dungarees here. So many words! And I’ve never heard of piratas, but I’ll have to start using that one.

    • Interesting—where’s here? I’d mostly agree with your usage except dungarees—which I’ve always seen as referencing overalls. Hmm. Scroll down a bit to Zena’s comment for an official (or at least published) usage… 🙂

      • Here is in the USA, southeast. The “Lee” jean brand sold “dungarees” that were very popular in the 90s here. They weren’t overalls, but they did have the hammer loop and extra pockets. I had a pair and i thought they were so cool, but never had use for the hammer loop. I also had a pair of overalls that i loved, and now i think any overall would look terrible on me!

  7. Those are awesome pants for an awesome daughter. Maybe there will be a fishing accessory that would sit in that loop? I don’t see her carrying around a hammer all day.

  8. I love that Tyo is so confident in who she is! I agree that the piping would have been nice on the waistband, but also doubt that anyone would think about that sort of thing except for other sewists. I personally don’t like those hammer-loopy things on my pants because I am super-klutzy, so I always end up somehow snagging that loop on things.

    • She is pretty awesome when she’s awesome. Of course she’s also jut turning twelve—we’ll see what the next few years brings. 😉

      I’ve never had pants with the hammer-loop, although now I’m wishing my field pants had one—I am always trying to figure out a good way to carry my rock hammer. Hmm…

  9. Katherine

    She is waaay too cool! Great piratas.

  10. According to Patternmaking for Fashion Design, 3rd ed, the North American terms for the various “pant derivatives” are (from shortest to longest):
    Jamaica shorts
    Bermuda shorts

    I would definitely say these are “pedal-pushers”, although the word didn’t spring to mind immediately. (After some groping for the word, the best I could come up with independently was “knickerbockers”.) They’re essentially knee-breeches. Definitely not capris (which is what Audrey Hepburn wore).

    • Yeah, I was looking at that after (see the next post). Only thing is, from the first time *I* was introduced to the word capris, I’ve consistently experienced it used in reference to the shorter below-knee lengths (“Pedal pushers” and “toreadors”) … which makes me think the common usage, at least around here, has changed a lot. 🙂

      and yes, totally knickers. 🙂

      • When I think of capris, I think of the length that they define as “toreadors” (a term that I might have heard once or twice, but certainly has no currency here), which is similar to the length of the pants I’ve seen in Audrey Hepburn photos. I also think of the short pants that you start to see in the spring on women of a certain age as capris. Because capri pants were popular in the 50s and 60s, I wanted to check what the length was at that time, but I haven’t been able to find anything yet.

        We did not grow up that far apart. How did we end up with such different understandings of “capri”?

  11. Pingback: Lengths of the Pantses | Tanit-Isis Sews

  12. Those look pretty cool! And I agree with isidore: as far as I know, that weird strap if for hanging one’s hammer.

    Oh, and if you make another version and you want to adjust the fit based on your experience with this pair, take care what you do with the crotch curve. Because of the print and the cool/cute poses, I can’t really analyze the fit based on the pictures but just keep in mind that ‘scooping’ the curve means you will be left with less fabric in that area. The way to reduce ‘wedgie-ness’ would have to do with increasing the length of the back pattern piece above the crotch line (= lowering the crotch curve)

  13. How cool are these! And did she wear them? Its been a few days since you posted this so I wonder if the wide smile and cool pics created a bond with them…?

  14. Pingback: Jeans for the Cool Kid | Tanit-Isis Sews

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