Almost progress.

Holy off-grain fabric, Batman.

Left margin is folded on-grain.

Very glad I took the time to thread-trace along a rib. Presumably this stuff was knit in the round and then sliced. I really wish they’d just leave it in the round. So many more options that way.

Thread-tracing along a rib of the knit to find the grain.

I also took the lining pieces and compared them to the shell pattern pieces to see which adjustments I needed to make to them. The coat body lining was pretty easy, but the sleeves were weird. I have always been under the impression that lining pieces should be, if anything, a tiny bit smaller around than the shell pieces, since they go inside—turn of cloth and all that. With the exception of the back pleat, I know. Well, the sleeve lining pieces were wider. Or at least, they were until I added the 1 cm width to each sleeve piece. Now they’re pretty much (I would say) bang on. Am I missing something? Are they just oddly drafted?

And here’s another question for those of you who actually know what you’re doing! The under-collar (separate pattern piece) is drafted to be cut in two pieces, with a seam down the middle. Now, it was my understanding that you do that when cutting the under-collar on the bias (the grain-line shown is straight). So I was thinking about cutting it on the bias anyway. But then I remembered that my fabric is a knit, which doesn’t need bias to stretch/drape nicely. So maybe it doesn’t matter. So—can anyone enlighten me on exactly WHY one cuts the undercollar on the bias, and whether one would bother in a knit, and if one didn’t bother, would there be any point to cutting the under-collar in two pieces, or should I just cut it on the fold?

Tomorrow: Cutting, interfacing, and how much couture does one kids’ coat need?

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12 Comments

Filed under Sewing

12 responses to “Almost progress.

  1. I understand that undercollars are cut on the bias because they roll smoothly that way, and the upper collar rolls over it. Bias also gives a bit of malleability – handy when you want to keep those seams underneath!
    For a knit I would probably cut it in one piece on grain like the collar (CB = rib line) as this will roll nicely. Maybe you could cut the fusing on the bias to prevent the collar edge flaring? It depends on your knit and your fusing so an experiment on a scrap will help determine.
    Keep us posted!

  2. I agree with Sherry and I’d like to add that the fact the undercollar is meant to be cut on the bias is also the reason why it’s in two pieces: that way you can just cut that piece once out of your folded fabric (it should have a diagonal straight grain line). When using knit, well, Sherry’s right about that too: try out on a scrap and go from there.

    About the lining pieces: especially for coats and jackets, lining is often cut a bit bigger than the outer shell. A reason for that is that lining fabric is more delicate and has less stretch than fabrics normally used for the outside of such garments. A tighter lining would tear easily.

  3. under colar would be on bias becasue its slightly smaller than the top collar so you can ease them together better. I would think more important than whether its on bias or straight is to make sure it is a smaller piece than the top collar so that it draws the seam&stitching line underneath rather than showing on top.

  4. Jackets for Real People by Palmer Pletsch explains that really well… It’s not quite perfect to cut two pieces both on the bias, they should be cut with the crosswise and lengthwise threads going the same way on both pieces, mirror-image style.

    Leaving that, I’d probably just cut your undercollar on the fold. It’s a knit.

  5. Hatty

    and, actually, the lining should be a tiny bit bigger than the main body fabric. That way it can slip and slide a little to ease wear and also lining fabric usually has a little less stretch than the main body so if it isn’t loose enough it rips (i know this from experience!).

  6. Sewista Fashionista

    This is a stretch here, but I have been thinking of purloining men’s jacket fabric for a small coat for my daughter – so I have been inspecting them a lot at the thrift store. Most men’s jackets have an undercollar of melton, something so stiff that maybe it does require a bias – though finding bias on melton? – who knows? Sometimes a classic technique for one type of garment gets applied to all garments, whether or not it really carries over.

  7. Thank you EVERYONE! That was pretty much what I had thought about the under-collar—it’s so nice to know I’m not *always* on crack (unlike the part about the lining pieces being bigger).

    Now to think about stay tape (yay) and whether to use a knit or a non-stretch interfacing. I tried out a small swatch of each and they’re both nice.

  8. All these muslins & hard work – that’s definitely a case of big motherly-love & dedication going on here 🙂 :thumbsup:

  9. Even on a knit fabric, I think I would use a fairly stable interfacing for the shoulder/upper bodice area. Because the weight of the garment hangs from the shoulders, this area needs to be stronger. It still needs some flexibility so that it doesn’t look or wear stiff.

  10. For a knit, I wouldn’t cut the undercollar on the bias and would interface it in a non-stretch interfacing. You are going crazy with coat making!

  11. Everyone else seems to know more than I do about collar making. So I’ll just say that the color is kick-ass!

  12. Oh good, you have the answers on the bias collar and what to do. You know, I always thought fitting a little girl would be easier than fitting a grown woman! That’s serious commitment, making three muslins. Can’t wait to see the finished coat!

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