Tag Archives: Men’s clothing

V8801—men’s jeans

Men's Jeans

Men’s Jeans

I’ve been wanting and not wanting to sew jeans for Osiris for YEARS. For all the usual reasons: he is picky and has some specific fitting issues. Frankly, making shirts for him hasn’t been hard—as long as the sleeves are long enough and he gets the details he likes, he’s pretty much happy. But jeans—now that’s all about fit. Scary, scary fit.

So, let’s start with his main requests: slim/tapered legs (but they can’t be too tight) and a rise that isn’t too low. Fit issues will be leg length (easy) and his curvy-for-a-dude butt. (potentially horrifying. The fitting challenge, not the butt itself. I quite like that bit.)

I have a couple of patterns I’d like to try, starting with Vogue 8801. I’m kinda hesitant since what is out there for reviews are fairly mixed. (Everything from too tight to too loose to right on, but some concerns about the pocket placement and yoke proportions seem more consistent.) I was pleasantly surprised my husband’s 32″ waist and 37″ hips were within the same size range—but then he’s a little “chunky” right now, which makes him a lot easier to fit. (When he’s not “chunky” he has a 28″ waist, try finding men’s pants in that size. 😉 )

I also compared the Vogue pattern to an old indie pattern* I have that looks like it stepped right out of the rodeo. And was pleasantly surprised that they were very similar in overall size and rise. The Vogue seems to have a narrower front, but wider back pieces, and the angle of the legs is a bit different.

Curved yoke piece.

Curved yoke piece.

I made (perhaps unwisely) a few preemptive fitting adjustments. These are the same curvy-butt adjustments I make for Tyo (and to a lesser extent myself): increased height at CB with a wedge, and curving in the top of the back yoke. This may throw off the waist size, but we’ll cross that bridge when we come to it. Happily the waistband has a CB seam which should help with tweaking the rear fit.

At Osiris’s request, I’m using stretch denim. He’s had some health issues the last few years that contribute to a lot of weight fluctuation and variable bloating, so stretch denim has become his friend. The denim I’m using for the “muslin” pair is just barely stretchy , but the one I am hoping to make the “good” pair out of is both beefier and stretchier. (Frankly, it is taking every bit of my willpower not to make it into something for me… I totally downloaded the Ginger jeans pattern a few weeks ago… 😉 )

Fabric. And pocket lining.

Fabric. And pocket lining.

Another thing I’m curious but ambivalent about is the shaped waistband in this pattern. I mean, I’m all about that in my own jeans, but I wear them low, where curvature is needed—not at all where Osiris wears them. And they’re supposed to be interfaced (I even bought waistband interfacing, which of course won’t work with the contour band). If I do interface, I’m thinking I’ll go with a knit fusible, to get some extra heft but keep the stretch Osiris is loopin

Anyway, wish me luck!

 

*Designer Jeans #260, from Sharon Marie Studios, which appear to have been published out of Edmonton, Alberta, in the late 70s and early 80s. I have actually collected the entire family—men’s, women’s, baby, and a couple different size range of children’s jeans. My mom squealed when I showed them to her—apparently she made me a pair of jeans with one of the kids’ patterns when I was small.

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Manshirting

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I finally managed to snag some shots of Osiris wearing his Vogue 8889 shirt. It’s a little rumpled from being worn, but the man takes camera shy to a whole new level so I’ll take what I can get.

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The fit through the shoulders is great. I took Kbenco’s experience to heart and downsized two sizes at the waist to get an actual slim, fitted shape (my husband’s chest-waist ratio is closer to the Misses’ pattern sizing than the mens). I should perhaps have been a little more thoughtful about how I did this—the way the pattern pieces are nested, the amount I removed at each seam wasn’t entirely even. But I like the overall look.

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I knew (ok, guessed) from past experience that I would need to lengthen the sleeves. I added two inches, but one would’ve been plenty. Fortunately, Osiris, like me, has been scarred by a lifetime of too-short sleeves, so feels the longer, the better. I should’ve shortened the body, as well (like me, he’s all limb) and enlarged the collar, which is about an inch and a half small. I do wish more men’s shirt patterns had separate measurements given for the collar, as that’s an important fit-point and not hard to do. Or maybe it’s buried in there somewhere… I must admit I don’t find the Vogue patterns the easiest to parse. Anyway, all easy fixes for the next shirt, and he’s not the sort to ever button up his collar anyway.

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I do so love those shoulder tucks, even if they are off-grain and so impossible to get perfectly smooth. The slightly rumpled look works well for this fabric, which is a thickish, textured cotton that I love to bits. It’s casual, and does rumpled well. I used a light-grey topstitching, and the method from the Colette Negroni instructions to do the flat-felling. The Vogue instructions were pretty terse.

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I also kinda love the fold-over button placket for one reason: it makes it REALLY easy to figure out which side to do your buttonholes on!

Most importantly, Osiris seems to like the shirt even more than I do. He’s generally pretty good about wearing the shirts I’ve made him, as long as they meet his requirements (round collar, no pockets, long-enough sleeves), but this one is getting almost constant wear since it was finished. Of course, the fact that summer has finally arrived and it’s the perfect fabric to be both cool and covered and comfortable might have something to do with that, too…

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