A long-awaited skirt

(Photo from November of 2012)

Somewhere around a decade ago, when blogs were shiny and new, a dear online sewing friend sent me a gift of some fabrics she didn’t think she would get to use. It’s perhaps a little embarrassing to admit that I, also, went on to not use them for, y’know, a decade, but anyway. That coating is earmarked for the Next Coat when my grey coat wears out, which is on its way but not quite yet.

And then there was the glorious, sequined, black linen border embroidery. One of those fabrics relegated instantly to the “too good to cut” pile. I’ve fantasized about making it up many times over the years, but kept waiting on the perfect plan, or the perfect moment. Needless to say, such a moment did not arrive. It didn’t help that in addition to being exquisite, there was a scant two yards there. I don’t often think too much on the difference between a yard and my native mètre, but when you’re trying to eke a garment out of only 2, that extra 8” of fabric can make or break.

Anyway. Last spring, when the Leslie Skirt by Wearing History came out, I was blown away. I have a bit of a thing for front buttoning designs, and her sample in linen just ticked all of my boxes. Despite the skirt featuring that most dreaded of features in my wardrobe—waist gathering. But I instantly purchased the pattern, and started going through fabrics I had on hand (and more importantly, in sufficient quantity) to give it a go. And I thought of this long-languishing border embroidery.

But no. On further inspection of the pattern, the gathering was limited to a tiny section at the side of the front. The skirt as a whole is A-line (which is great for me in general), with a very curved hem. Completely unsuitable for a border embroidery. Not to mention, the part where there was only two yards, and the pattern calls for a minimum of 3 1/4.

But, my brain couldn’t leave well enough alone. Especially once another piece of linen-type fabric turned up, a remnant from a shirt I made my husband once, of an almost identical colour, weight, and weave. Enough there to make the waistband/buttoned front piece, preserving all the precious embroidery for the skirt itself. Surely two yards is enough circumference for a skirt hem? Surely?

So I dove in.

The pattern calls for interfacing in the waistband segment, but nothing down the front where the buttonholes are. This seems suspect to me, so I wound up adding strips of knit interfacing down my button bands, while I used a beefy twill fused to armoweft for the waistband interfacing, and added little plastic boning stays in several places to support the raised waistband. It’s possible I went overboard, but I regret nothing. (Except that some of the bones are a tiny bit too long.)

Should have at least one more button, but somehow my brain told me 5 cards x 2 buttons/card=12 buttons. Bad brain.

The waistband and front button panel were all cut according to the pattern, but to make the border embroidery work went pretty far off road. Basically I took the front edge of the skirt pattern, with the curve where it gathers into the waistband, and put that along the cut edges of my fabric, while I used the length of the centre back pattern to get the right “height” at the back fold, and drew a line connecting the two. I think it might be slightly longer in the back, which accommodates booty? Anyway, I cut this and just extended the gaaa an athers all the way around, gathering my fabric to fit. And while I would love it if I had, oh, an extra yard of fullness for that skirt, it’s pretty darn fine just as it is.

I had meant to finish the edge of the border embroidery nicely and trim it around the scallops, but I wound up just folding it under and hemming instead. I think the more structural nature of the folded edge works better with the weight of the front button placket anyway. Or something.

The pattern calls for quite a deep hem, which is great, but it also has the same amount of hem at the bottom of the button placket, which just seems odd. I didn’t trim the excess away, but it does make the bottom of the placket/front panel a bit odd and bulky. We’ll call that vintage pattern oddities.

Anyway! It’s a skirt! It worked! It’s a garment which does challenge me on a few levels. I don’t usually care for anything gathered at my waist, ever. The length is a bit odd, too, although that weird midi length seems to be popular of late. Most notably, it doesn’t have pockets, which may be an issue if I ever try to wear this to work.

I don’t regret overengineering the waistband, and would (will) do it again, as I’d still really like to try a true-to-pattern version of this skirt. The design does put a lot of stress on that second buttonhole, and I’m tempted to add a hook and bar to support the waist there, with the buttons just keeping things closed. You do definitely want to be aware of where you want the pattern to sit and make sure your size works, as you don’t have a lot of room to futz with the button positioning without changing the look of the overlap at the top of the shaped waistband. That being said, I did find it true to size. Also, if you’re shortwaisted like me, it will look a lot different than on the drawing where there appears to be about 4” between the top of the waistband and the bust—for me, there is no such space, and depending on the look you want you might want to adjust for that.

Anyway, it’s made, and fun, and I am so happy to have finally used that fabric!

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8 Comments

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8 responses to “A long-awaited skirt

  1. Gorgeous! Glad you could make it work with your amount of fabric, I know that has kicked my butt on numerous occasions. Do you find it comfortable to have the waistband sit so high? My waist is basically my underbust, and I’ve been thinking about trying some high waisted pants….which might be terrible on my “super short torsoed” frame, but I’m tired of pants riding down under my belly. On a completely unrelated note, I love your purple walls, I think it’s the same shade I painted my bathroom a couple of years ago. 💜

    • I actually find it really comfortable—the bottom of the waistband is at my natural waist, which I think is the correct place for it in a design like this. That being said stuff at my natural waist does tend to ride up to my underbust these days 😅. I’m pleasantly surprised you noticed the purple walls! They tend to read as white. We enjoy them (although we’re terribly destructive so they need some touching up already.

  2. I made this too! But we had a covid exposure on the night I was going to wear it to dinner so no photos therefore no blog post yet… Being a shorty shorty I shortened both the regular length and the height of the waistband so that it wouldn’t be a fully empire skirt on me :p I used wool crepe so that front hem under the placket is definitely bulky AF and I wasn’t sure what to do with that.

    • Yeah in hindsight I would just trim the excess. Or maybe trim the pattern piece and save a few inches of fabric. 😂 next time I make this I will definitely either try a shorter length or the full sweeping length. That sucks that your night got canceled! 😢

  3. I love this stash diving story. I am so impressed with how you’ve used the border print in this “completely unsuitable” pattern. You break the rules with such style.

  4. I love the way you’ve adapted the pattern to the fabric. It works so well!

    The no gathering round the waist credo makes me smile. I’ve been like that all my life. One mustn’t have big hips must one *rolls eyes*. You look great, and it suits you and your figure and your personality. Good on you for going for it. You really pulled it off!

  5. The use of fabric is stunning! It’s definitely a good reminder to all of us to dig into that “too good to cut” pile of fabrics we all have for use someday…

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