Butterick 6206 | Tanit-Isis Sews

(Santa stuffed my stocking well this year, too)

Syo gave me some very lovely pink linen for Christmas, brought back from her trip to Australia this past fall. Only two metres, she apologized, because it was very expensive. I was, understandably, thrilled. I prewashed the fabric that very day.

But then I needed to pick a pattern as special as the fabric itself. After some faffing around, I managed to find Butterick 6206, an old pattern of my mom’s. It has the significance to me, though, of being the first commercial pattern I ever sewed with, back in 1998 or 1999, when I was about 18, and wanted a white outfit to wear clubbing at the local goth night. I made it from an old, sheer curtain, and into a crop top, and I was thoroughly delighted with myself except for one thing—I didn’t know to lengthen the sleeves. So they were always annoyingly just a little too short.

Anyway, this felt like a good time and place to revisit this pattern, with a couple of adjustments.

I added 2” to the sleeve length, just at the hem, since exaggerating that gorgeous bishop sleeve shape didn’t seem like a bad plan at all. And then when cutting the body pieces I scootched them in from the fold by about an inch each, for a total of 4” extra ease at the bust, which seemed about right for my current measurements. I don’t know if I strictly needed it for the bust but I definitely did at the hip. I also raised under the arms my usual 1/2”.

This was a great beginner pattern for me when I was a teenager because it really is as easy as it says it is, but revisiting it I also appreciated there is some really sophisticated drafting going on. The sleeve shape is lovely, and the neckline has some really subtle shaping as well. Much more subtle than the (similar era) Kwik Sew pattern I made recently.

I added a little slit at the front, since I liked how that had worked on the Kwik Sew pattern, and it makes it easy to finish the neckline with a drawstring, which I like.

And then I went a little crazy, and decided this (very simple) special pattern and special fabric needed entirely hand-finishing. I hand-felled all the seams. And then I decided I wanted a ruffle along the edge, so after I hand-hemmed the whole thing I went back over the neckline and sleeve hems and added another round of chainstitching. I should honestly have added two, one on each side of the elastic, as I’m really not sure how well my basic hemming will hold up when functioning as a casing, but this was already a two week project and we’ll cross that bridge when we come to it.

The chainstitching took by far the longest, although it seemed to go faster than the last time I attempted it, when it made me question my sanity. And you barely see it when it is all gathered up, although I like to think it adds a certain dimension and complexity to the simple design.

The only thing I’m not completely satisfied with is the drawstring I used, which is a piece of white cotton stay tape. Next time I have some avocado skins around I will try and dye it…

Then, because I was so happy with the pattern, I made it again.

Last summer, I attended a local sewist’s garden party, which included a fabric swap. I got this lovely piece of textured linen-rayon blend. It was, however, a very trendy chartreuse colour that I knew I would never wear. So I eventually managed to pick up some fabric dye and over-dye it with indigo blue. The result is a fairly dark, muted navy, still not one of my core colours but a lot closer than it had been before. However, there was only a metre of the fabric, and I was a bit stumped as to what to make, especially as I wasn’t in the mood for a tank top.

But when I had the Butterick 6206 pattern out, I realized that if I used the short sleeve pattern piece, I could just squeeze out the shirt, less about an inch of length, if I added a centre-front seam. I wasn’t able to add as much width to this version, but the fabric has a lot of give so I wasn’t too worried. And the CF seam made adding the little slit I like super easy.

This shirt was as quick and modern in its construction as the first one was painstaking. Overlocking and machine hems throughout. As a result it only took an afternoon to construct.

I do need to find a darker drawstring, though. Definitely not a fan of the white for this shirt.

Anyway, I think both of these will fit nicely into my existing wardrobe, drifting ever further in the whimsical direction as it is.

Long and long ago (I’m guessing I was about sixteen), I found this pattern kicking around the house. It was, presumably, my mother’s, and I was (just barely) able to look past the 70s styling to the romance of a sweet peasant blouse.

Being me at sixteen, I turned it into a crop top and made it sheer. Subtle, I was not.

The only thing I didn’t do was lengthen the sleeves. My congenital arm-length abnormality hadn’t really sunk in yet, so it didn’t even occur to me that the pattern drafter wouldn’t magically know that my family has ape arms*.

Pattern pieces

I’m pretty sure I had some help from my mother, if only of the “this is a grain line—you know what grain is, right? Yes, that bit goes on the fold” variety. I had been sewing (Barbie clothes) for years at this point, but this was probably my first commercial pattern. I know I did no seam finishing, but it wasn’t a ravelly fabric. Not that that would’ve made a difference.

It was not a terribly practical garment, but it looked pretty much how I had hoped and served whatever costumey goal I had in mind. So when I found the pattern the other day while digging around my mom’s sewing stuff (she has a surprisingly large stash for someone who “doesn’t sew”) I had to throw it up here, for old time’s sake.

In hind-sight, this was actually a pretty damn good choice for a beginner project. Not that I thought of that.

*This is the spot where I stop and point out that humans are apes because you can’t construct a natural group that includes all apes but excludes humans. For the same reason, although much further removed in time, birds are also dinosaurs. Dontcha love cladistics? 😀