Linen Repeat

Having finally completed, more or less, my Victorian Sundress, I promptly started a corset. Then I realized summer is slipping away distressingly quickly, and I hadn’t even made anything for me to actually wear on the everyday.

So I pulled out some linen I got last year from Pure Linen Envy, spent some time paging through my pattern database, and finally, on a rare full sewing day* during my vacation, got to work.

* fully sewing by hopping between my own project and two different projects for the twins, plus cleaning off the dining room table so I could cut out said projects, oh, and trying to keep said twins entertained, too.

My inspiration was this linen sundress I made back in 2016. Which has turned into a sturdy summer staple, even as the always-dodgy bust fit got worse and worse over the years. So I was excited to give it a companion, but, um, not with that same pattern.

However, perhaps ironically, I went with another McCall’s pattern, M8177. I have a much more successful history with this pattern, though: my blue big-sleeve dress from last year. I have always wanted to make the sundress version, and this seemed like a great chance to do that. Except. I had only three metres of my linen, and according to the pattern the long version called for 4.5.

Now, the long version includes both short, puffy sleeves and a self-fabric belt, so I was pretty sure I could get away with less, but the only way to find out for sure was a fun game of pattern Tetris. Since my linen wasn’t directional, I folded it cross-wise, as this can really help maximize fabric usage for flared-skirt patterns like this. Things weren’t looking good, until I realized that the back piece actually ISN’T meant to be cut on the fold. Suddenly I had enough room even for the facings.

What I didn’t have quite enough room for was the pockets. This pattern comes with inseam pockets, which I thoroughly enjoy on my first version, but either I lost the pattern piece or it’s folded up in with the sleeve pieces I didn’t use this time. Either way, I forgot about it when I was first cutting out, and I didn’t have quite enough fabric left for them anyway (although the nice thing about inseam pockets is you can always substitute something else.)

I did, however, have just enough left for two patch pockets big enough to hold my phone, so I went with that option.

After some contemplation I went with a selection of more-or-less matching vintage shell buttons from stash. It was either that or similar-looking plastic ones, but I’m pretty sure I’ll enjoy the shell more.

I thought the shell buttons gave it a bit of a shabby-chic look, so I pulled out some lace appliqués I’ve been stashing since Fabricland closed and started to play around. I gave them a quick tea dip to take the edge off the bright white, and eventually went with an asymmetrical arrangement on the front.

And that’s about it. Linen is easy to sew. I don’t super-love the process of attaching the facing on this pattern. I think I should probably sew the underarm portion of one seam, then line the straps up against that and stitch them down. But that’s my own issue with the style, not an issue with the pattern.

When I made the first dress I was annoyed that the back facing had a CB seam, as that kind of just adds unnecessary bulk, but given my fabric limitations this time I actually needed that seam, so win?

The straps are as drafted on the pattern (shortened about 1/2”, not surprising for me). They are a sturdy, bra-covering width, but I must admit I’d probably make them a touch narrower next time.

After wearing the linen has stretched out a bit, so I may take it in a touch more. And the front facings do flop around below the buttons so I should really stitch them down before I catch a toe. This linen is a lighter weight, which is delicious but may not be quite the indestructible workhorse that my black linen is. But I absolutely love the feel and colour, and the shell buttons and lace add a slightly shabby elegance that I’m all in for.

Now to just wear it as many times as I can get away with before the weather changes.