Having finished cutting the last bits for Tyo’s bunnyhug last night, I had about half a men’s XL sweatshirt left sitting on the basement floor, so I decided to cut the shorties (Jalie 3022) for Tyo out of it. It may be borderline in terms of stretch, but then so was the red striped fabric I used for Syo’s pair. I tend to round up the Jalie patterns for the kids, because I’d rather make their clothes a little loose and have them grow into them. (This does not always thrill my children.) On the other hand, I really need to re-measure them; Tyo grew something like two inches since Christmas.
The photos pretty much all suck—black, y’know–but I think you get the idea. Though I think the shorts are much cuter in real life.
Knowing that Tyo’s derriere requires rather more room than Syo’s, I wanted to add more height to the rear crotch curve. Normally to do this I just add a wedge at the CB seam, about halfway up the curve, tapering to nothing at the side-seam. For this particular pattern, though, this is complicated by the vertical seam along the back of the leg. This incorporates a little bit of shaping at the top, and the potential for a lot more if you needed it. For this first try, I didn’t add any shaping on this seam, and they seem fine, but it’s certainly an option if you need it. Anyway, I basically added 1.5 cm in height all along the centre-back pattern piece (piece B), and made a wedge on the side-back pattern piece (piece C).
I am very, very, very glad I did this little alteration, as Tyo’s shorts cover very nicely—high enough at the back and covering her entire butt. Yay! Hence the modeled shots here. 1.5 cm may have been a bit excessive, but I’d rather be safe than sorry in this case.
For construction I followed the Jalie instructions much more closely this time, especially for the waistband, which is the full height with the decorative “contrast” band—in this case it’s made of blue stretch velvet, from a tiny remnant I had to piece at the CF (in hindsight, it would’ve made much more sense to put the seams at the sides, but I wasn’t thinking far enough ahead.)
I stitched all my seams in three passes, straight triple stitch for the seam itself and then using the serger to finish it, and then topstitching. It makes a much nicer finish inside than the overedge stitch on my machine, and with the topstitching the seam-allowances are flattened down nicely on the inside, which looks much more professional, if not 100% RTW.
When I posted about Syo’s Leotard and using the three-step zig-zag to attach it, I got a lot of comments from people who found this stitch stretched out the elastic too much, keeping it from recovering fully. I didn’t find that at all on the leotard, but I was using clear plastic swimsuit elastic in that case, and I wonder if the commenters were referring to standard elastic instead—because when I triple-stitched the (regular) elastic to the inside of the waistband (basically understitching) with a three-step zig-zag, it definitely ended up longer than when it started. It’s fine on, but you can see the top of the waistband is a little ripply when it’s not being worn. So, commenters—have you had this problem with clear plastic elastic? Or is it just (as here) with standard elastic? I don’t know if I’d use clear plastic elastic in a waistband like this anyway, but it’s definitely something I’ll keep in mind when making my stitch-choices in the future.
Incidentally, I sewed the entire project with my 1/4″ edgestitching foot. This worked great, because the keel on the foot is right at the edge of the seam-allowance. I mean, it’s not hard to line up a 1/4″ seam allowance with the edge of the regular zig-zag foot, but this was practically brainless. It wouldn’t have worked if I’d been trying to use my over-edge stitch, though, because the edgestitching foot is a straight-stitch-only foot.
So, in conclusion, pretty definitely a win.
21 responses to “And a pair for Tyo.”
Yay win! They look great. Most of my triple zig zag use has been with bra making, not quite the same situation.
AGAIN WITH THE SEWING FOR CHILDREN.
aren’t those sewaholic patterns screaming at you?
(yo chilluns, and their tanit made garments are, as always, lovely.)
I know! I’m sorry :(.
The Sewaholic patterns are loud, but I’ve been sitting on the Jalie ones for like a month now…
Even when I still owned a machine with a triple zig-zag stitch, I found that a simple zig-zag — or even a straight stitch — was entirely adequate on regular elastic, and did not stretch out the elastic itself too much.
Yeah, I’m thinking it is probably better for regular elastic.
I keep on learning from you – maybe it just seems to sink in better these days, but even though I do not have a syo to sew shorts for, the pattern piece diagram showing the alterations got me looking carefully & nodding. They make sense to me- hoorah and thank you. I love learning.
Well, I’m glad one of us is! 😉
What a good mom! Sewing for your offspring instead of yourself. I’m sure it has nothing to do with the fact that the kids projects are smaller and easier and faster than what you want to make. 😎
No, nothing at all… (looks around quickly for the exit)
T-I, those are cute shorts! Just wanted to also thank you for posting about Gertie’s blog and the Bombshell dress on my blog. I’m not much into couture sewing, but since the pattern is downloaded from the class, I thought why not take it. It will force me to slow down, do some couture hand sewing (which I never do lol), in addition to getting a dress style my daughters want for the summer. Thanks again for the heads up! I really appreciate it.
Sometimes I find clear plastic elastic breaks quicker than other elastics when I triple-stitch zig-zag it…
Yeah, I can see that being an issue. I haven’t encountered it yet, but those little holes don’t heal.
Cute shorts! I wish I had some tips on the elastic for you, but I just make sure that I steam the heck out of it to shrink it back down and then I press it as flat as I can. Depending on how taut the elastic had to be pulled when it was stitched, is what seems to influence how much rippling there is in the end.
In this case, the elastic was stretched, but not all that much (maybe a couple of inches over the whole length of the waistband). It was fine until I topstitched it… I didn’t try ironing, though. We’ll see how it comes through the wash.
You did a great job altering that pattern! My DD has quite the little bit of booty and finding dancewear that covers it properly (read: like daddy would like it covered) can be quite the challenge! I may have to cave one of these months and sew a few pairs of these yet.
It really isn’t that tricky (and this pattern is more involved than most yoga/dance pants patterns would be).
The next few years are going to be so fun… 😉
I understood your description of the alteration just fine. Those are some NEATO shorts. I’m not a booty short person, but I’m tempted to make some shorts out of sweatshirt material for a beach cover up this summer. This style looks like it would be ideal.
Yeah, I’m totally craving some yoga sweats now. I don’t have much in the way of comfy/lounge around clothes (well, that aren’t castoffs of my husband’s, anyway).
Ah ha! I think that’s what I need to do with my Portfolio trousers – add a wedgie! Thanks for those drawings – they are really helpful.
And lucky daughters!
I’m a little late to the party, but I once did a bra making course and she taught us a good trick for the elastic stretching out (which I have perfected by sewing mountains of nappies).
While sewing, you stretch a section of elastic to lie along your fabric the same way you normally would, but then you press your fingers down on your fabric and allow the elastic to relax, taking the fabric with it (so sort of gathering it slightly) and then sew over that section. Repeat for the rest of the fabric. If it’s a really soft elastic it will still stretch slightly but a wash will take care of it.
I hope that makes sense? It would definitely be much easier in video form…
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