Padstitching.

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The collar for my uncle’s Christmas vest. Kind of enjoying the tailoring lite. Now—do I put in the welt pockets before or after attaching the hair canvas to the fronts?

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3 Comments

December 9, 2012 · 12:34 pm

3 responses to “Padstitching.

  1. Those are some sexy stitches.
    My vote would be welt pockets after hair canvas, mostly because it’ll add some stability to where the pocket is attached (but I may be wrong).

  2. Good luck with the tailoring!
    Definately put the welt pockets in after the hair canvas. The whole point of adding hair canvas is to keep the front smooth and stable, having a pocket in between would rather spoil the effect. I usually cut a piece out of the hair canvas a bit bigger than the pocket opening will be and apply a fusible interfacing (something like Vlieseline, not a woven one) over it, fusing the edges of the hair canvas in place. I have no idea what the official method would be, but in this way, you won’t have to press back thick and stiff sections of fabric and canvas when making the welt and you have the added benefit of controlling fraying (which is why I was taught ALWAYS to use fusible interfacing when making bound anything).

    • I think the pattern instructions call for fusing a patch of stabilizing interfacing over the welt area, constructing the pocket, cutting a hole in the hair canvas in that area, and poking the pocket through it when attaching the hair canvas. Which I guess would work but still seems a little odd. I like your suggestion for the stabilizing patch! Thanks for the input. :)

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